Owner’s Manual

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Pre-trip Checklist

Driving Safety

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Maintenance Record

Hitching & Loading

Typical Wiring Diagram for Seven-Way Plug

Safety Breakaway Switch

Attach the safety breakaway tether to the truck body. DO NOT attach the cable to the plate handle, hitch plate base or plate mounting brackets. Adjust the cable so both vehicles may turn freely without pulling the pin from the switch. Lubricate the breakaway pin periodically to ensure good operation. Make sure the pin is securely in place each time before using the trailer. The tow vehicle battery will supply power for the safety breakaway switch pin if a separation occurs. However, if the pigtail also disconnects, the vehicles brakes will not engage unless an RV battery is installed in the vehicle and is charged.

notice

DO NOT USE THE BREAKAWAY SWITCH AS A PARKING BRAKE, AS IT IS INTENDED FOR EMERGENCY USE ONLY AND SUCH USE WILL DRAIN YOUR RV BATTERY.

SAFETY BREAK-AWAY SWITCH WILL NOT OPERATE unless connected to a power source equivalent to or greater than an automotive type 12 volt, 12 amp hour wet cell battery.

Ride Height of Vehicle – Clearance

When the vehicle is connected to the tow vehicle, check the ground clearance and front to rear pitch of the vehicle. If the front of the unit is too high, weight will be transferred behind the axles, causing the unit to fishtail and the rear axle tires to prematurely wear. If the front of the unit is too low, additional weight will be transferred to the truck. To achieve proper ride height, adjust the pin box by removing the bolts on each side and raising or lowering the box until the proper holes are aligned, then reinsert and tighten the bolts. Retighten the pin box bolts every 50 miles for the first 500 miles and prior to every trip thereafter.

WARNING

NEVER OVERLOAD YOUR 5TH WHEEL. DO NOT EXCEED THE RATED LOAD OF THE RV OR THE RATED LOAD OF ANY AXLE! OVERLOADING CAN CAUSE LOSS OF CONTROL OF THE UNIT, WHICH CAN RESULT IN SEVERE PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH. OVERLOADING CAN ALSO CAUSE PROPERTY DAMAGE TO THE UNIT, ITS CONTENTS AND THE TOW VEHICLE.

Dangers of Overloading

During the design and development of our vehicles, the number and size of storage compartments and the liquid tank capacities are maximized for value and convenience. However, be mindful that if all holding tanks are filled to capacity, and all storage compartments and cupboards are filled to the maximum volume, the vehicle could be overloaded causing an unsafe condition. Refer to the manufacturer’s labels posted inside and outside of the unit for weight information.

notice

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD THE ENGINE OF YOUR TOW VEHICLE BE ALLOWED TO “LUG” OR PULL HARD FOR EXTENDED PERIODS OF TIME. SUCH MISUSE CAN CAUSE ENGINE FAILURE.

In addition to causing premature wear, overloading can cause problems in the area of handling characteristics. An overloaded vehicle will take longer (time and distance) to stop in an emergency. Overloading can also cause added wear to components such as tires and wheel bearings. Overloading can also cause overheating of the tow vehicle in some instances.

To avoid overloading, you must be aware of your vehicle weight situation at all times. Know where you stand when it comes to GVWR, GAWR and your current GVW AND UVW. The following is a key to understanding these terms:

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR): is the maximum permissible weight of this trailer when fully loaded. It includes all weight at the trailer axle(s) and tongue or pin.

Unloaded Vehicle Weight (UVW): is the weight of this trailer as manufactured at the factory. It includes all weight at the trailer axle(s) and tongue or pin. If applicable it also includes full generator fluids, including fuel, engine oil and coolants.

Cargo Carrying Capacity (CCC): U.S. - Equal to the GVWR minus the UVW and LP gas weight. (Water is considered a component of cargo) Canada - Equal to GVWR minus the UVW, full fresh (potable) water weight (including the water heater) and full LP gas weight.

Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR): is the value specified as the load carrying capacity of a single axle system, as measured at the tire-ground interfaces.

Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW): is the weight of the coach with all the items and supplies that are loaded into the unit at any point in time.

Weighing your vehicle

First, locate a scale that will be large enough to weigh your trailer and tow vehicle. They are generally available at truck stops, concrete yards and grain elevators.

Before weighing your trailer, fill the propane tanks (80% capacity) and the fresh water tank if you plan on taking fresh water with you. Your tow vehicle should have a full tank of fuel and have all passengers included with the tow vehicle weight.

Pull onto the scales and locate the trailer in the center of the scale. Block the wheels and unhitch the trailer making sure tongue jack or landing gears are set to level the trailer. Record the weight of the recreational trailer.

Hitch the trailer, raise the jacks and weigh both the trailer and the tow vehicle together. Record this weight.

Pull forward until tow vehicle is off the scales, then weigh trailer with axles on the scale. Record this weight. Subtract this weight from the trailer weight to find the hitch weight.

The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (from the weight label) minus the recreational trailer weight equals the amount of supplies and personal gear you can carry.

If you have dual axles, you can get a weight for each axle by stopping on the scale with one axle on the scale and the other off. Record the weight of the one axle. Then move the trailer so that both of the axles are on the scale. Record this weight. The difference between the two axles will be the second axle’s weight.

It is equally important that the load is distributed evenly among all of the axles and wheels. One axle or wheel may be overloaded even if the GVWR and GAWR weights are within limits.

Pull the trailer forward until the front axle is off of the scale. On tandem axle trailers, both axles should be carrying about the same load. If not, level the trailer or redistribute the load.

Also, check weight distribution at each wheel. Use the above technique weighing only the right or left side. Calculate the weight at each wheel. Be sure that no one wheel is overloaded. If you have trouble calculating or interpreting the weights, contact your dealer or vehicle manufacturer.

Weight Rating

Located on the unit’s front roadside lower corner is a Federal Certification Label. This label gives the maximum weight carrying capacities of your unit and for each axle designated by the letters “GVWR” and “GAWR” respectively. The serial number of your unit is located on this label, also. Here is a sample label as found on the pin box:

Under no circumstances should the respective loads ever exceed these ratings. Dealer installed equipment will reduce CCC. If the loaded weight of your RV exceeds the GVWR or the weight of any axle exceeds that axle’s GAWR, the RV is overloaded and you must remove items to bring the weight down to or below the GVWR or GAWR.

Pin Weight

To determine the pin weight of the vehicle, you must weigh the tow vehicle with the trailer hitched. Record this weight. Then disconnect the trailer and weigh the tow vehicle again. Subtract the difference between the two weights and you will arrive at your pin/hitch weight. Adjust your cargo accordingly to remain within 15-27% of the GVWR of the 5th wheel (10-15% on a Travel Trailer). The GVWR is the GAWR added to the pin/hitch weight.

Loading Instructions

Whether you start out for a weekend jaunt or a longer trip, the first thing you are going to do is load such items as food, clothing, bedding and recreational equipment. As you become experienced in RV living, you will learn what is necessary and what merely takes up storage space.

notice

EMPTY ALL HOLDING TANKS BEFORE FILLING FRESH WATER TANK; OTHERWISE YOU WILL LIMIT CARGO CAPACITY. MOST CAMPGROUNDS SUPPLY DUMP STATIONS WHICH CAN BE UTILIZED.

Loading Tips

After you have determined how much weight you can safely carry and selected those items to make up that weight, make a list and keep it for future reference. Load the RV and distribute the load so that you get proper weight on the axles and hitch. Do not load upper cabinets with heavy items which can shift or fall during transit. Secure and brace items so they won’t move during travel, thereby shifting the load in the RV. Do not load heavy items near either end of the RV or on the rear bumper. Adjust cargo storage to keep the side to side wheel loads as equal as possible. Carry only as much water as needed for travel use or to balance the load. Always empty your waste water and sewage holding tanks before traveling.

Make a loading diagram of your properly loaded RV. It will help you locate where specific items are stored and will help speed the loading process. Store emergency items in a readily accessible location. Include tools, first-aid kit, rain gear, flashlight, highway warning devices, and an electric cord or light.

All items must be considered for their weight and stored according to how heavy they are. Heavy items should be placed close to the floor and in the center of the vehicle. DON’T FORGET TO INCLUDE THE ITEMS YOU PURCHASE ON YOUR TRIP.

Luggage and similar cargo carried inside the vehicle must be secured to prevent possible damage in the case of a sudden stop or accident.

The amount and placement of cargo will also affect the amount of water and LP gas that you can carry. Water weighs 8.3 pounds per gallon and propane weighs 4.2 pounds per gallon. Periodically reweigh your unit. Different traveling configurations may change your loading and weight pattern.

Traveling

Towing – A good way to practice towing is to choose a large parking lot (where it is permissible).

Easing to a stop and starting smoothly saves wear and tear on your tow vehicle, saves gas, and prevents damage to the hitch and items stowed in the trailer. Remember, when towing the trailer, always maintain at least three cars and a trailer (approximately 85 ft) length space between you and the car in front of you for every 10 miles of speed that you are traveling. This should give you ample time to stop in case of emergency.

As you drive, try to anticipate problems that may occur and prepare for them, even though they may never happen. Anticipate dips, gutters and depressions in the street, slowing down well in advance, as these are the hardest jolts of any kind on your tow vehicle, your hitch, your trailer and items stored in your trailer. Take dips and bumps slowly and be certain that the trailer wheels have passed the point before accelerating. Cross railroad tracks slowly. Always release your brakes before crossing. On long grades, shift into a lower gear (or lower range, if you have automatic transmission) before your engine labors.

When going downhill, use the same procedure as going uphill well in advance; the compression of your tow vehicle’s engine will help to slow your whole rig safely. Avoid conditions that require excessive and prolonged use of your brakes. Apply and release brakes at short intervals to give them a chance to cool.

Controlling Sway or Fishtailing

Sway or fishtailing is the sideways action of a trailer caused by external forces. It is common for travel trailers to sway in response to strong winds or crosswinds or when passed by or passing a semi-tractor and trailer or driving downhill.

WARNING

Excessive sway or fishtailing of your travel trailer can lead to the rollover of the trailer and tow vehicle. Serious injury or death can occur. It is important that you read and understand the information in this section.

Sway or fishtailing of your recreation vehicle can be controlled and is primarily impacted by four factors:

• Equipment
• Tongue weight
• Driving
• Corrective measures

Equipment – When hitched together, the trailer and the tow vehicle must be level. The tires of both the trailer and tow vehicle should be in good condition and inflated to the pressure recommended as noted on the exterior of the trailer and in the owner’s manuals of the trailer and tow vehicle.

Your trailer brakes should work in synchronization with your tow vehicle brakes. Never use your tow vehicle or trailer brakes alone to stop the combined load. Your brake controller must be set up according to the manufacturer’s specifications to ensure proper synchronization between the tow vehicle and the trailer. Additionally, you may have to make small adjustments occasionally to accommodate changing loads and driving conditions.

Also, we recommend a hitch with built-in sway control be provided for your unit. Please consult your dealer regarding this equipment, as the RV manufacturer does not provide sway control devices.

Tongue weight – The tongue weight should be between 10% to 15% of the total travel trailer weight. See page 26 of this manual regarding the proper weight distribution of your recreation vehicle.

Driving – This is the most important component. The tendency for the vehicle to sway increases with speed therefore, obey all speed limits and reduce speed during inclement weather or windy conditions.

Corrective measures – If sway occurs the following techniques should be used:

1. Slow down immediately, remove your foot from the accelerator. Avoid using the tow vehicle brakes unless there is a danger of collision. Reduce speed gradually whenever possible. If you can do so safely, use the brake hand controller (independent of the tow vehicle brakes) to gently and progressively apply the trailer brakes. This will help to keep the vehicles aligned. Practice using the brake hand controller on a deserted parking lot. Don’t wait until an emergency occurs before using it.

Location of the brake hand controller is important and should be made easily accessible.

2. Steer as little as possible while maintaining control of the vehicle. Because of natural reaction lag time, quick steering movements to counter trailer sway will actually cause increased sway and loss of control. Keep both hands on the wheel. Hold the wheel as straight as possible until stability is regained.
3. Do not jam on the brakes or attempt to press on the accelerator to speed your way out of the fishtailing. Both actions make the situation worse and could cause severe injury or death.
4. Once the swaying is under control, stop as soon as possible. Check tire pressures, cargo weight distribution and look for any signs of mechanical failure. Travel at reduced speeds that permit full control until the problem can be identified and corrected.

Turning Corners

Here’s where you find the first basic difference with a trailer. The trailer wheels do not follow the path of your tow vehicle’s wheels. The trailer will make a closer turn than the tow vehicle. Compensating for the action when making turns, you will put the tow vehicle out further into the intersection than you would normally, so that the trailer will clear the curb or clear any parked vehicles along the curb. Making a left turn requires a technique similar to a right turn, with a wider than normal swing into the new lane of traffic to keep the trailer from edging into the opposing lane.

On sharply winding and narrow roads keep well to the center of your lane, equally away from both the center line and the pavement edge. This allows the trailer to clear the edge of the pavement without likelihood of the wheels dropping off onto the shoulder, which could cause dangerous trailer sway. Do not overcrowd or cross the center line. All sharp turns should be taken at low speeds. Professional drivers, when rounding turns, slow down well in advance of the turn, enter it at reduced speed, and then accelerate smoothly as they come out again onto the straightaway.

Overtaking and Passing

When you pass another vehicle, remember that it takes longer to accelerate and you must allow for the length of the trailer to pass as well, before returning to your lane. Use your signals freely. On freeways and expressways, try to pick the lane in which you want to move and stay in it, preferably the slow lane to the right. Remember, always pass very carefully.

Slippery Pavement

On slippery and icy pavement, drive slowly, and if you feel you are skidding, gently apply the trailer brakes only.

Backing and Parking

After arriving at your destination, your next task is to choose a good level parking space and back into it. A recommended procedure for backing into a space is:

Stop near the site, get out and look it over. (Check the site for low hanging tree limbs, posts, large rocks, etc., which are to be avoided.)

Always try to place the site to your left. This way you can see what the trailer is doing while you are backing. If the site is on your right, you will be backing onto your blind side, which is more difficult.

With everything clear, maneuver the vehicle into position for backing into the site.

Now grasp the steering wheel at the bottom (never at the top) and back up. Turn the steering wheel in the direction you wish the vehicle to go. If the site is on your left, move your hand to the left and back slowly, watching the vehicle. When the vehicle starts into the turn, follow it by easing up on the steering wheel. The vehicle will move into position.

Once in site, pull vehicle forward & back again to prevent trailer from maintaining a binded position which can damage the trailer and components.

Wheel Nut Torque

Proper wheel nut torque is essential to safe and dependable trailering. The wheel and axle systems used in RVs are similar in many ways to those used in cars and trucks, but they differ in several important ways. These differences require special attention to wheel nut torque both while the trailer is new and throughout the trailer’s life

Trailer wheels must carry much higher loads per wheel than passenger car or truck wheels. Furthermore, wheels on tandem axle trailers do not steer, and are subjected to very high side load stress whenever the trailer makes a tight turn. When you go around corners – especially slow, tight ones – the wheels on your trailer are subjected to these strong side loads. This tends to flex the wheel and gradually loosen the wheel nuts. Although the materials and manufacturing methods are maximized for this kind of service, these extra load stresses and flexing can cause loosening.

It is critical that the wheels be properly torqued at the start of the trip and every 50 miles for the first 500 miles of road operation. Although the wheels have been properly torqued before leaving the manufacturing plant, settling and wearing in of components during the first few miles of operation may cause some loosening of the wheel nuts.

The wheel nut torque is 120 ft-lbs. Always use an accurate torque wrench to tighten wheel nuts. A torque wrench with adequate accuracy is available at most automotive tool stores. Considering the overall investment in the trailer, this is a very reasonable cost. Use of a torque wrench can also reduce the effort required to tighten the wheel nuts.

WARNING

IT IS IMPORTANT TO MAINTAIN PROPER TORQUE TO PROVIDE SAFE AND SECURE ATTACHMENT OF THE WHEEL TO THE HUB/DRUM. BE SURE TO USE WHEEL NUTS THAT ARE COMPATIBLE WITH THE COIN IN THE WHEEL. IMPROPERLY TORQUED WHEEL NUTS CAN CAUSE THE WHEEL TO SEPARATE FROM THE WHEEL MOUNTING SURFACE DURING OPERATION. THIS COULD RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE, SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY, OR LOSS OF LIFE.

Any time a wheel is replaced, be sure to tighten the wheel nuts, following the sequence shown in the diagram to the specified torque. If the wheel was replaced, check the torque again at every 50 miles for the first 500 miles and prior to each trip thereafter. If you notice wheel wobbling or hear a rattling sound coming from a wheel, especially at low speeds, a wheel lug nut may have come loose. This problem is usually caused by improper tightening or by faulty or damaged lug bolt threads. If you have reason to believe a lug nut has come loose, SAFELY STOP THE VEHICLE AT THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. Put up warning devices. Remove the lug caps and check the tightness of all the lug nuts.

Tighten all lug nuts to the specified torque of 120 ft-lbs. If lug bolt threads are damaged or faulty, get professional service help. Do NOT tow the trailer with missing lug nuts of faulty lug bolts.

WARNING

DO NOT USE A SIZE AND TYPE OF TIRE AND WHEEL OTHER THAN THAT ORIGINALLY PROVIDED BY HEARTLAND RECREATIONAL VEHICLES, LLC BECAUSE IT CAN AFFECT THE SAFETY AND PERFORMANCE OF YOUR VEHICLE, WHICH COULD RESULT IN AN INCREASED RISE OF LOSS OF VEHICLE CONTROL, VEHICLE ROLLOVER AND/OR SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH. THE INSTALLATION OF INCORRECT WHEELS COULD CAUSE WHEEL SEPARATION WHICH COULD RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE, SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY, OR LOSS OF LIFE.

1. Clean mounting surfaces, lug nuts & studs. Do no lube lug joint unless instructed in your owner’s manual.
2. Start all lug nuts by hand to prevent cross threading.
3. Tighten nuts in sequence shown below using a calibrated torque wrench. Do not use an impact wrench. Wheel nut torque requirements vary depending on the size and manufacturer. Always use wheel manufacturer’s recommendations
4. Wheel nuts should be torqued before first road use and after each wheel removal. Periodically check and re-torque per manufacturer’s recommendations.

WARNING

do not tow the trailer with missing lug nuts or faulty lug bolts

Before each trip and any time a wheel is replaced, be sure to tighten the wheel nuts, following the sequence shown in the relevant lug pattern below. Set the torque specification in three stages as seen in the chart below. If the wheel was replaced, check the torque every 50 miles of the first 200 miles of travel.

If you notice wheel wobbling or hear a rattling sound coming from a wheel, especially at low speeds, a wheel lug nut may have come loose. This problem is usually caused by improper tightening or by faulty or damaged lug bolt threads. If you have a reason to believe a lug nut has come loose, safely stop the vehicle at the side of the road as soon as possible. Put up warming devices. Remove the lug caps and check the tightness of all the lug nuts. Tighten all lug nuts to the specified torque, using a torque wrench. If lug stud threads are damaged or faulty, get professional service help.

WARNING

WHEEL SEPARATION CAN OCCUR ON FIRST TRIP, TIGHTEN WHEEL LUGS AT START AND AT 10, 25, AND 50 MILES. TIGHTEN TO MANUFACTURER’S SPECIFICATIONS AS OUTLINED IN THE OWNER’S MANUAL. THEREAFTER, CHECK WHEEL LUGS BEFORE EACH TRIP. FOLLOWING WINTER STORAGE, CHECK BEFORE BEGINNING A TRIP. FOLLOW EXCESSIVE BRAKING, INSPECT WHEEL LUGS. AR0062

Wheel Compatibility

WARNING

Do NOT Mismatch Wheels and tires

Axle systems are installed with hubs and drums that are compatible with many wheels used in the recreational vehicle industry that have matching bolt patterns. If the original manufacturer installed equipment is in need of replacement, the wheel manufacturer should be contacted for proof of compatibility prior to replacement and use.

Customers replacing original equipment that has not been tested for compatibility must ensure the replacements are compatible to the hub and drum assembly installed. Such elements of compatibility include, but are not limited to:

• Diameter of the hub-mounting surface.
• Stud length and diameter.
• Location and number of studs.
• Center hold diameter for the wheel.
• Wheel mounting offset from the rim center.
• Rated capacity of the wheel.
• Wheel fastener torque.
• Wheel nut size and shape.

Impact of any added wheel accessories (such as decorative center caps) that could affect proper seating of the wheel to the hub surface.

Certain tests are recommended by the manufacturer’s of factory installed equipment, such as the cornering fatigue test based on SAE J1095/SAE J267 and field tests, are recommended for all wheels and rims to be installed in place of original factory equipment. Contact the wheel manufacturer to verify compatibility with the factory installed equipment prior to replacement.

Tires & braking

Tire Inspection

The following chart is meant to be helpful in determining the condition and maintenance of your tires:

	Condition	Possible Cause	Remedy
	Even Center Wear	Over Inflation	Check & Adjust Pressure When Cold
	Inside & Outside Wear	Under Inflation	Check & Adjust Pressure When Cold
	Smooth Side Wear – One Side	Loss of Camber or Overloading	Check & Unload As Necessary Have Alignment Checked
	“Feathering” Across The Face	Axle Not Square To Frame or Incorrect Toe In	Square Axles Have Alignment Checked
	Cupping	Loose Bearings or Wheel Balance	Check Bearing Adjustment and Wheel & Tire Balance
	Flat Spot	Wheel Lockup	Adjust Brakes

WARNING

WHEN REPLACING TIRES CONSULT THE WHEEL AND TIRE MANUFACTURERS’ SPECIFICATIONS FOR COMPATIBILITY. IMPROPERLY MATCHED WHEELS AND TIRES MAY FAIL AND CAUSE PROPERTY DAMAGE, SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY, OR LOSS OF LIFE.

Wheel Bearing Lubrication

There is no need to lift the vehicle before greasing axles equipped with today’s modern “easy-lube” technologies:

• Remove the rubber plug from grease cap.
• Insert grease gun on the grease zerk.
• Pump until new grease begins to appear.
• Replace rubber plug.

Hubs and components should also be disassembled yearly and inspected for worn or otherwise damaged parts.

WARNING

keep tires properly inflated. a tire that is run long distances or at high speeds while seriously underinflated will overheat to the point where the tire may lose air suddenly and/or catch fire, possibly resulting in damage to the vehicle and its contents and or personal injury.

Tires and Wheels

The tires should be checked before starting on every trip. Check them regularly and keep inflated to recommended pressures. The recommended tire pressure is on the side of the tire. Rotate tires at least once every 5,000 miles or as recommended by the tire manufacturer. Most models have a spare tire available in case of an emergency.

All vehicles are equipped with tubeless tires. They are designed for today’s turnpike speeds and are rated to carry the weight of the trailer plus your family’s personal needs for an extended vacation. If you should require an adjustment on a faulty or defective tire, secure the name of your nearest tire dealer or distributor and request an adjustment according to the conditions and terms of the warranty.

Tire Changing

1. Use emergency flares when near a road or highway.
2. Block wheels on the opposite side from the tire you wish to change to prevent accidental movement.
3. Position a hydraulic jack on the frame close to the spring hanger.
4. Raise the trailer until the tire clears the ground.

WARNING

Check tire pressures before traveling. Always check tire pressure when tires are cold. Do not exceed the maximum recommended pressure.

The Importance of Proper Tire Inflation

Your trailer tires and wheels, and tongue or fifth-wheel hitch, support the entire weight of the trailer and its contents. The tires are also the only contact the trailer has with the road surface. Determining and maintaining proper inflation is the most important factor in maximizing the life of your tires. Driving on a tire that does not have the correct inflation pressure for the trailer load is dangerous and may cause premature wear, tire damage, tread delaminating and/or loss of control of the trailer and/or tow vehicle.

An under-inflated tire will build up excessive heat that may go beyond the limits of the tire materials. This could result in sudden tire failure. An under-inflated tire will also cause poor vehicle handling, rapid and/or irregular tire wear, and an increase in rolling resistance which results in decreased tow vehicle fuel economy.

The maximum cold inflation pressure for your tires is stated on the tire sidewalls. Keep your tires inflated to the maximum cold pressure. This reduces the chance of a failure and improves towing stability. Maintaining correct tire inflation pressure for your trailer is of the utmost importance and must be a part of regular vehicle maintenance.

You must weigh your trailer when it is fully loaded as you expect to use it. You need to weigh all axles together and calculate the hitch weight. You may find that even thought the total weight is within the GVWR, one side may be overloaded. For this reason, you must know the weight of each side of the trailer. When you know the weight on each side of the trailer, the combined axle assembly, and the hitch weight, you will be able to manage your loading to be able to maintain good balance and assure good and safe handling on the road. Here are some tips to help you plan your loading:

• Do not overload. Experiment with various loads starting with light loads and working up to heavier loads. Take into consideration the load of the fresh water system. The tow vehicle and the terrain will affect the true weight you should carry.
• Distribute the load evenly over the axles as much as possible. Keep heavy items low and forward, preferably in the lower storage areas. This will produce a lower center of gravity, and improve road stability.
• Distribute the load evenly on each side of the trailer. Place heavier object opposite the heavier appliances, cabinets, furniture, etc. when possible. Experiment with various load positions until you find the best distribution.
• Avoid loading heavy items in or on the rear of the trailer. This can cause both total weight problems and hitch weight distribution problems.
• Secure items so they won’t move around while traveling. Make sure all items and materials are properly stored. Close and latch all drawers, cabinet doors, and closet doors. Pull all loose furniture away from cabinets and walls, and lie on their side or secure to prevent rubbing during travel.
• Carry only as much water as you think you will need while traveling. Water weighs over eight pounds per gallon. Whenever possible, empty the holding tanks before going on the road.
• If you are heading for rough terrain, use heavy packing material in the cupboards to hold plates, glasses, etc. Put a nonskid material beneath heavier items to prevent shifting. Expensive and breakable belongings should be well packed and placed on the floor in the center of the trailer, as the center rides best.
• Store emergency items, such as fire extinguisher, first-aid kit, highway warning devices, gloves, etc. in a readily accessible place. Do not bury these items beneath other cargo.
• When you have properly loaded your trailer with the things you need for your trip, make a diagram that outlines where things are stored. With this diagram, your list of items and the weight of the items, you will be able to find specific items easily and have a hand reference for determining proper weights.
• Weigh your trailer after you have loaded it. You have to do this several times to get it right.

caution

Tire load ratings are dependent on tire inflation pressures. Under-inflated tires can be damaged and result in a loss of inflation pressure.

Check the trailer tires frequently. Tires can lose air over a period of time. In fact, tires can lose 1 to 3 PSI per month. This is because molecules of air, under pressure, migrate through the rubber from the inside to the outside. A drop in tire pressure could cause the tired to become overloaded, leading to excessive heat buildup. If a trailer tire is under-inflated, even for a short period of time, the tire could suffer internal damage. A flat can go unnoticed on a multiple axle trailer while it is being towed. Running with a flat can cause it to catch fire and burn up your rig. With multiple axles or tandem wheels it is hard sometimes to see a flat tire as the other tires are supporting the weight of the rig and the flat tire is less noticeable. A quick check can be made by “thumping” each tire with a tire iron or rod to make sure they all sound the same. Each time you gas up, walk around the trailer and give a quick check by feeling each tire with your hand. A tire that is getting low will be hotter than the rest. There is no substitute, however, for actually measuring tire pressures to make sure they are all within safe limits. Always check the cold tire inflation pressures before each trip and at least once a week during the trip for proper inflation levels.

The most common causes of tire failure are overloading and underinflation. Both result in excess flexing of the tire sidewall which causes heat buildup and eventual tire failure. Continuing to run with a flat can cause it to catch fire.

The most important things you can do to avoid tire fires are:

• Maintain proper tire pressure
• Stay within tire and vehicle road limits
• Avoid road hazards if possible
• Inspect tires for cuts, slashes, and other irregularities.

Properly maintained tires improve the steering, stopping, traction, and load-carrying capability of your vehicle. Make tire safety a regular part of your vehicle maintenance routine. Recognize that the time you spend is minimal compared with the inconvenience and safety consequences of a flat tire or other tire failure.

Understanding Tire Pressure and Load Limits

Tire inflation pressure is the level of air in the tire that provides it with load-carrying capacity and affects the overall performance of the vehicle. The tire inflation pressure is a number that indicates the amount of air pressure a tire requires to be properly inflated. It is difficult to obtain the recommended tire pressure if your tires are not cold. Because tires are designed to be used on more than one type of vehicle, tire manufacturers list the “maximum permissible inflation pressure” on the tire sidewall. This number is the greatest amount of air pressure that should ever be put in the tire under normal driving conditions.

The air pressure recommended on the tire information placard is for the original standard equipment tires only. Your trailer may be equipped with optional-sized tires. Always follow the pressure recommendations stamped on the tire sidewall for any replacement tire.

Checking and Adjusting Tire Pressure

It is important to check your vehicle’s tire pressure at least once a month, always before each trip, and at least once a week while on the road. Not only do tires naturally lose pressure over time, but they can lose air suddenly if you drive over a pothole or other object, or if you strike the curb. It is difficult to determine tire inflation pressure by looking at the tire. Purchase a tire pressure gauge to keep in your vehicle. Gauges can be purchased at tire dealerships, auto supply stores and other retail outlets.

The recommended tire inflation pressure that vehicle manufacturers provide reflects the proper psi when a tire is cold. A “cold” tire is one that has not been driven on for at least three hours. When you drive, your tires get warmer, causing the air pressure within them to increase. Therefore, to get an accurate tire pressure reading, you must measure tire pressure when the tires are cold.

Refer to the tire’s sidewalls for the recommended tire pressure. Your trailer may be equipped with optional tires.

Check and write down the pressure in all tires.

If the tire pressure is too high in any of the tires, slowly release air by gently pressing on the tire valve stem with the edge of your tire gauge until you get to the correct pressure.

If the tire pressure is too low, note the difference between the measured tire pressure and the correct tire pressure. You will need to add air to get to the correct pressure.

Add air pressure to each tire that is under-inflated.

Check all the tires again to make sure they have the same air pressure.

If you have been towing your trailer and think that a tire is under-inflated, fill it to the recommended cold inflation pressure. Remember to recheck and adjust the pressure in all tires when you can obtain a cold reading.

Tire Tread

The tire tread provides the gripping action and traction that prevent your vehicle from slipping or sliding, especially when the road is wet or icy. In general, tires are not safe and should be replaced when the tread is worn down to 1/16 of an inch. Tires have built-in tread-wear indicators that let you know when it is time to replace your tires. These indicators are raised sections spaced intermittently in the bottom of the tread grooves. When they appear “even” with the outside of the tread, it is time to replace your tires.

Tire Life

Trailer tires may be worn out even though they still have plenty of tread left. This is because trailer tires have to carry a lot of weight all the time, even when not in use. It is actually better for a tire to be rolling down the road than to be idle. During use, the tire releases lubricants that are beneficial to tire life. Using the trailer tires often also helps prevent flat spots from developing. The average life of a trailer tire is about five years under normal use and maintenance conditions. After five years, trailer tires may be degraded to the point that they should be replaced, even if they have had minimal or no use. Exposure to sunlight (ultra-violet damage) and high speed towing in hot conditions also reduces tire life. As heat builds up during driving, the tire’s internal structure starts to break down, compromising the strength of the tire. Have your tires inspected by a tire supplier to determine if your tires need to replaced.

WARNING

All tires on your trailer should be the same type, size, construction and lead rating – do not mix bias-belted and radial tires.

Replacement Tires

To maintain tire safety, purchase new tires that are the same type, size, construction and load ratings as the original tires. Look at the tire Information placard, or the sidewall of the tire you are replacing to find this information. If you have any doubt about the correct size to choose, consult with the tire dealer.

WARNING

There is a danger of serious injury or death if a tire of one bead diameter is installed on a rim or wheel of a different rim diameter. ALWAYS replace a tire with another tire of exactly the same bead diameter designation and suffix letters.

Tire Safety Information

This portion of the Owner’s Manual contains tire safety information as required by 49 CFR 575.6

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) has published a brochure (DOT HS 809 36) that discusses all aspects of Tire Safety, as required by CFR 575.6. It can be obtained and downloaded from NHTSA, free of charge, from the following web site:

http://www.NHTSA.dot.gov/cars/rules/TireSafety/ridesonit/tires_index.html

Studies of tire safety show that maintaining proper tire pressure, observing tire and vehicle load limits (not carrying more weight in your vehicle than your tires or vehicle can safely handle), avoiding road hazards, and inspecting tires for cuts, slashes, and other irregularities are the most important things you can do to avoid tire failure, such as tread separation or blowout and flat tires.

These actions, along with other care and maintenance activities, can also:

• Improve vehicle handling
• Help protect you and others from avoidable breakdowns and accidents
• Improve fuel economy
• Increase the life of your tires.

Use this information to make tire safety a regular part of your vehicle maintenance routine. Recognize that the time you spend is minimal compared with the inconvenience and safety consequences of a flat tire or other tire failure.

Safety First – Basic Tire Maintenance

Properly maintained tires improve the steering, stopping, traction, and load-carrying capability of your vehicle. Under-inflated tires and overloaded vehicles are a major cause of tire failure. Therefore, as mentioned above, to avoid flat tires and other types of tire failure, you should maintain proper tire pressure, observe tire and vehicle load limits, avoid road hazards, and regularly inspect your tires.

Finding Your Vehicle’s Recommended Tire Pressure and Load Limits

Tire information placards and vehicle certification labels contain information on tires and load limits. These labels indicate the vehicle manufacturer’s information including:

• Recommended tire size
• Recommended tire inflation pressure
• Vehicle capacity weight (VCW–the maximum occupant and cargo weight a vehicle is designed to carry)
• Front and rear gross axle weight ratings (GAWR– the maximum weight the axle systems are designed to carry).

Both placards and certification labels are permanently attached to the trailer on the forward half of the left side, and are easily readable from outside the vehicle without moving any part of the vehicle.

Tire Repair

The proper repair of a punctured tire requires a plug for the hole and a patch for the area inside the tire that surrounds the puncture hole. Punctures through the tread can be repaired if they are not too large, but punctures to the sidewall should not be repaired. Tires must be removed from the rim to be properly inspected before being plugged and patched.

Tire Fundamentals

Federal law requires tire manufacturers to place standardized information on the sidewall of all tires. This information identifies and describes the fundamental characteristics of the tire and also provides a tire identification number for safety standard certification and in case of recall.

Tire Label Information

notice

Your trailer is equipped with tires designated as “ST”. This designation means that the tires are built specifically for trailer applications. They are correct for your trailer and the maximum loads the trailer was designed and rated to carry. Tire industry standards require that tires with “ST” designation are speed restricted to 65 MPH under normal inflation and load conditions. Unless a different speed restriction is indicated on the sidewall of the tire, it is best that you do not operate your trailer at speeds above 65 MPH.

P - The “P” indicates the tire is for passenger vehicles.

NOTE: Passenger car tires are not recommended for use on trailers.

LT - The “LT” indicates the tire is for light trucks or trailers.

notice

Although tires designated “LT” are sometimes used on trailers, they are not recommended for use on your trailer and should not be considered as replacements for the original equipment “ST” designated tires.

ST - An “ST” is an indication the tire is for trailer use only

Next number - This three-digit number gives the width in millimeters of the tire from sidewall edge to sidewall edge. In general, the larger the number, the wider the tire.

Next number - This two-digit number, known as the aspect ratio, gives the tire’s ratio of height to width.

R - The “R” stands for radial. Other tire designs may be “bias ply” or “bias belted” and are designated by other letters.

Next number - This two-digit number is the wheel or rim diameter in inches. If you change your wheel size, you will have to purchase new tires to match the new wheel diameter.

Next number - This two- or three-digit number is the tire’s load index. It is a measurement of how much weight each tire can support. You may find this information in your owner’s manual. If not, contact a local tire dealer.

Note: You may not find this information on all tires because it is not required by law.

Speed Rating - The speed rating denotes the speed at which a passenger car tire is rated. A speed rating will not be found on “ST” tires used on trailers. All “ST” tires are speed restricted to 65 mph. Never operate a vehicle in an unsafe or unlawful manner. Tire speed ratings (if indicated) should never be associated with the ability of the vehicle to handle the speed for which the tire is rated.

U.S. DOT Tire Identification Number

This begins with the letters “DOT” and indicates that the tire meets all federal standards. The next two numbers or letters are the plant code where it was manufactured, and the last four numbers represent the week and year the tire was built. For example, the numbers 3197 means the 31st week of 1997. The other numbers are marketing codes used at the manufacturer’s discretion. This information is used to contact consumers if a tire defect requires a recall.

Tire Ply Composition and Materials Used

The number of plies indicates the number of layers of rubber-coated fabric in the tire. In general, the greater the number of plies, the more weight a tire can support. Tire manufacturers also must indicate the materials in the tire, which include steel, nylon, polyester, and others.

Maximum Load Rating

This number indicates the maximum load in kilograms and pounds that can be carried by the tire.

Maximum Permissible Inflation Pressure

This number is the greatest amount of air pressure that should ever be put in the tire under normal driving conditions.

Vehicle Load Limits

Determining the load limits of a vehicle includes more than understanding the load limits of the tires alone. A Federal Certification Label is located on the forward half of the left (road) side of the unit. The certification label will indicate the vehicle’s gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). This is the most the fully loaded vehicle can weigh. It also provides the gross axle weight rating (GAWR). This is the maximum weight a particular axle can carry. If there are multiple axles, the GAWR of each axle will be provided. In the same location as the certification label described above, there is a vehicle placard. This placard provides tire and loading information. In addition, this placard will show a statement regarding maximum cargo capacity.

Cargo Capacities

Cargo can be added to the vehicle, up to the maximum weight specified on the placard. The combined weight of the trailer and cargo is provided as a single number. In any case, remember: The total weight of a fully loaded vehicle can not exceed the stated GVWR.

Water and propane also need to be considered. The weight of fully filled propane containers is considered part of the weight of the RV before it is loaded with cargo and is not considered part of the disposable cargo load. Water however, is a cargo weight and is treated as such. If there is a fresh water storage tank of 100 gallons, this tank when filled would weigh about 800 pounds. If more cargo is being transported, water can be off-loaded to keep the total amount of cargo added to the vehicle within the limits of the GVWR so as not to overload the vehicle.

Understanding this flexibility will allow you, the owner, to make choices that fit your travel and camping needs.

When loading your cargo, be sure it is distributed evenly to prevent overloading front to back and side to side. Heavy items should be placed low and as close to the axle positions as reasonable. Too many items on one side may overload a tire. The best way to know the actual weight of the vehicle is to weigh it at a public scale. Talk to your RV dealer to discuss the weighing methods needed to capture the various weights related to the RV. This would include weights for the following: axles, wheels, hitch or pin (in the case of a trailer) and total weight.

How Overloading Affects Your RV and Tires

The results of overloading can have serious consequences for passenger safety. Too much weight on your vehicle’s suspension system can cause spring, shock absorber, or brake failure, handling or steering problems, irregular tire wear, tire failure or other damage. An overloaded vehicle is hard to drive and hard to stop. In cases of serious overloading, brakes can fail completely, particularly on steep hills. The load a tire will carry safely is a combination of the size of tire, its load range, and corresponding inflation pressure. Excessive loads and/or under-inflation cause tire overloading and, as a result, abnormal tire flexing occurs. This situation can generate an excessive amount of heat within the tire. Excessive heat may lead to tire failure. It is the air pressure that enables a tire to support the load, so proper inflation is critical. Since RVs can be configured and loaded in many ways, air pressures must be determined from actual loads (determined by weighing) and taken from the load and inflation tables provided by the tire manufacturer. These air pressures may differ from those found on the certification label. However, they should never exceed the tire limitation for load or air pressure. If you discover that your tires cannot support the actual weights, the load will need to be lightened.

Tire Safety Tips

Preventing Tire Damage

• Slow down if you have to go over a pothole or other object in the road.
• Do not run over curbs or other foreign objects in the roadway, and try not to strike the curb when parking.

Tire Safety Checklist

• Check tire pressure (including the spare) at least once a month and before going on any trip.
• Inspect tires for uneven wear patterns on the tread, cracks, foreign objects, or other signs of wear or trauma.
• Remove bits of glass and foreign objects wedged in the tread.
• Make sure your tire valves have valve caps.
• Do not overload your vehicle. Check the Tire Information and Loading Placard or User’s Manual for the maximum recommended load for the vehicle.

Steps for determining correct load limit

• Locate the statement “The weight of cargo should never exceed XXX KG or XXX LBS” on your vehicles placard.
• The figure stated on the placard is the available amount of cargo load capacity
• Determine the weight of cargo being loaded in the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo capacity.

For further information about wheel and tire safety:

1-888-327-4236 (TTY: 1-800-242-9 53)

http://www.safercar.gov

and NHTSA

400 Seventh St. S.W.

Washington, DC 20590

Storage of Tires

Rubber tires degrade faster when not being used. A cool, dry, sealed garage is the preferred storage location. Many recreational vehicles are stored outside. Some storage surfaces may cause tires to prematurely age. Placing a barrier (plastic or plywood) between the tire and storage floor/ground helps to protect the tires. When the tire may be out of service for 30 days or more, the vehicle should be in long-term storage condition.

IF THE RECREATIONAL VEHICLE IS STORED WITH WEIGHT ON THE TIRES, INFLATE THEM TO MAXIMUM INFLATION PRESSURE AS INDICATED ON THE FEDERAL IDENTIFICATION TAG.

• Thoroughly clean the tires.
• Unload the vehicle so there is minimum weight on the tires.
• Ensure the surface is reasonably level, firm, clean and has good drainage.
• Move recreational vehicle every three months to prevent cracking in bulge areas as well as flat spotting from prolonged sidewall strain and tread deflection.
• Cover the tires to block direct sunlight and ultraviolet rays.
• The parking surface will affect moisture accumulation on the chassis and flooring.
• Gravel covered parking areas allow moisture to evaporate into the underside of the recreational vehicle.
• Sealed concrete pads allow better ventilation under the recreational vehicle.
• Storage buildings with sealed concrete floors or heated facilities greatly reduce the amount of moisture accumulation and protect the recreational vehicle from moisture damage.
• Avoid wet or greasy surfaces. Avoid highly reflective surfaces like asphalt, sand or snow.

Before removing the vehicle from long-term storage, thoroughly inspect each tire tread area and air pressure. If the pressure check indicates tires have lost air, inflate to correct pressure for current load before use.

Support Tires When Leveling

Extreme caution must be taken to ensure the tires are fully supported when placing blocks under the tires. The load on the tire should be evenly distributed on the support block. In case of dual tires, distribute the load evenly on blocks for both tires. If not properly supported, the steel cables in the sidewall of the tires may be damaged and could lead to premature fatigue of the sidewall.

caution

SUPPORTING TIRES PREVENTS DAMAGE TO THE SIDEWALL OF THE TIRES, BUT DOES NOT PREVENT TIRE ROLL.

In Case of Flat Tire

In the event of a flat tire, it is recommended to call for roadside assistance. The size and weight of the trailer requires the proper equipment to change the tire. A professional service technician will have the equipment and training necessary to repair or replace the tire. In the event of sudden tire failure, avoid heavy braking. Slowly move to a safe, off-road location, which should be a firm, level area. Turn the hazard flasher system on. Inform roadside assistant of proper wheel mounting procedures.

WARNING

IN CASE THE TRAILER REQUIRES TOWING, ENSURE ALL PRECAUTIONS ARE FOLLOWED. THE MANUFACTURER WILL NOT COVER DAMAGE TO THE TRAILER CAUSED BY A TOWING COMPANY. NEVER ALLOW ANYONE TO GO UNDER A TRAILER WHILE IT IS BEING LIFTED BY TOWING EQUIPMENT. SERIOUS INJURY OR LOSS OF LIFE COULD RESULT.

Electric Brake System

The electric brakes on your vehicle are similar to those in your automobile; the difference being that they are activated by 12 volt electrical impulse as opposed to a hydraulic system. The impulse comes from a brake controller, which in effect regulates the flow of electrical current to the trailer brakes.

Brakes are usually maintenance free; however, road and driving conditions may at times cause them to grab, drag, or fade. Also, improper grounding of the trailer to the tow vehicle, irregular current, or a short circuit in the wiring system will cause electric brakes to malfunction. In any case, we strongly recommend that you consult your dealer or local trailer brake specialist on these problems.

WARNING

IF ANY KIND OR DEGREE OF BRAKE FAILURE OCCURS, HAVE THE BRAKES REPAIRED IMMEDIATELY. CONTINUED DRIVING IS DANGEROUS AND COULD RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR LOSS OF LIFE.

Electric brakes should be checked prior to every trip to determine the condition of the magnets and drums, and whether wiring connections are still secure (see manufacturer’s instructions). Brakes can be adjusted to activate ahead of the tow vehicle brakes for best road control. Consult the manufacturer’s instructions or you dealer for detailed information and service procedures.

Synchronization of Brakes

Recreational vehicle brakes are designed to work in synchronization with tow vehicle brakes. Never use tow vehicle or recreational vehicle brakes alone to stop the combined load. The recreational vehicle and tow vehicle will seldom have correct amperage flow to the brake magnets to give comfortable, safe braking unless proper brake system adjustments are made. Changing the recreational vehicle load and driving conditions, as well as uneven alternator and battery output, can mean unstable current flow to brake magnets. It is imperative to maintain and adjust brakes as set forth in this manual, use properly modulated brake controller and perform the synchronization procedure noted below.

In addition to the synchronization adjustments, electric brake controllers provide a modulation function that varies the current to the electric brakes with the pressure on the brake pedal or amount of deceleration of the tow vehicle. It is important that the brake control provide about 2 Volts to the braking system when the brake pedal is first depressed and gradually increases the voltage to 12 Volts as brake pedal pressure is increased. If the controller “jumps” immediately to high voltage output, even during a gradual stop, the electric brakes will always be fully energized and will result in harsh brakes and potential wheel lock-up.

Proper synchronization of tow vehicle to recreational vehicle braking can only be accomplished by road testing.

Brake lock-up, grabbing or harshness is often due to the lack of synchronization between the tow vehicle and the recreational vehicle being towed, too high of a threshold voltage (over 2 Volts) or under adjusted brakes.

Before synchronization adjustments are made, the recreational vehicle brakes should be burnished in by applying the brakes 2 or 3 times with about a 20 mph decrease in speed, e.g. 40 mph to 20 mph – Allow ample time for brakes to cool between applications, letting brake shoes and magnets to slightly wear-in to drum surfaces.

Controllers

To ensure safe brake performance and synchronization, completely read the brake controller manufacturer’s instructions before attempted synchronization procedure. Make several hard stops from 20 mph on a dry paved road, free of sand and gravel. If the recreational vehicle brakes lock immediately, decrease gain setting on the controller. If they do not approach progressive lock-up slightly increase the gain setting.

WARNING

ROAD TEST BEFORE USING. BE SURE AREA IS CLEAR OF TRAFFIC AND PEDESTRIANS. DO NOT EXCEED 30 M.P.H. FOLLOW PROCEDURES OUTLINED BY THE CONTROLLER MANUFACTURER. FAILURE TO DO SO COULD RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE, SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY, OR LOSS OF LIFE.

MINIMUM VEHICLE STOPPING DISTANCES ARE ACHIEVED WHEN WHEELS APPROACH LOCK-UP. AVOID BRAKE LOCK-UP AS IT RESULTS IN POOR VEHICLE STABILITY AND CONTROL. DEPENDING ON THE LOAD, BRAKE TYPE, WHEELS AND TIRES, NOT ALL RECREATIONAL VEHICLE BRAKES ARE CAPABLE OF WHEEL LOCK-UP.

If the controller is applying recreational vehicle brakes before the tow vehicle brakes, adjust controller level so the recreational vehicle brakes comes on in synchronization with the tow vehicle brakes. Adjust controller to allow recreational vehicle brakes to come on just slightly ahead of the tow vehicle brakes. When proper synchronization in achieved there will be no sensation of the recreational vehicle jerking or “pushing” the tow vehicle during braking.

Start by making sure the recreational vehicle brakes are properly adjusted. Some controllers have a gain control to vary the amount of current to the brakes and a level control which sets the controller inertia sensor to sense deceleration. The level adjustment can also vary when the recreational vehicle braking is felt. Gain, or output control, adjustment usually controls maximum amount of amperage available to the brakes. This can be adjusted for varying recreational vehicle load.

CAUTION

DO NOT ADJUST THIS CONTROL OUTSIDE THE PARAMETERS OUTLINED BY THE BRAKE CONTROLLER MANUFACTURER’S INSTRUCTIONS.

Brake Adjustment

Brakes should be adjusted by a service dealer after the first 200 miles of operation when the brake shoes and drums have seated, at 3,000 mile intervals, or as use performance requires. The electric brakes are of the drum and two shoe type and adjust the same as most automotive drum brakes. The adjusting screw is accessible through a hole at the bottom of the backing plate. Remove the hole plug and use a standard brake adjusting tool. Turn the screw until the shoes contact the drum and with enough force to make the wheel hard to turn by hand. Then back off the screw ¾ to one full turn or until the wheel turns freely.

Brake Cleaning and Inspection

The recreational vehicle brakes must be inspected and serviced yearly, or more often. Magnets and shoes must be changed when they become worn or scored. Wear or scoring may inhibit vehicle braking. Clean the backing plate, magnet arm, magnet and brake shoes. Make sure that all the parts are removed and replaced in the same brake and drum assembly. Inspect the magnet arm for any loose or worn parts. Check shoe return springs. Hold down the springs and the adjuster springs to check for stretch or deformation. Replace if necessary.

CAUTION

SOME BRAKE SHOE FRICTION MATERIALS CONTAIN ASBESTOS. CERTAIN PRECAUTIONS MUST BE TAKEN WHEN SERVICING BRAKES: AVOID CREATING OR BREATHING DUST; AVOID MACHINING, FILING OR GRINDING THE BRAKE LINING; DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR OR DRY BRUSHING FOR CLEANING. (DUST CAN BE REMOVED WITH A DAMP BRUSH.)

Maintain Safe Braking Distance

Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First a person has to decide to push on the brake pedal. That is perception time. Then that person has to bring up their foot to do it. That is reaction time.

Average reaction time is about ¾ of a second. But that is only an average. It will be less with one driver and more (up to two or three seconds) with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination and eyesight all will play a part in the perception time and reaction time. So do alcohol, drugs and frustration.

But even in ¾ of a second, a vehicle, such as a truck, moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That is without a trailer behind it. That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is very important. Especially when considering that it takes ever longer to stop when you have a heavy trailer attached to your tow vehicle.

Of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road (whether it is gravel or pavement); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire tread; the condition of your brakes; the weight of the vehicle and the amount of brake force applied.

The distance required to properly stop when towing a vehicle is often underestimated. As a good rule of thumb, when towing the trailer, always maintain at least 3 cars and a trailer (approximately 85 ft) length space between you and the car in front of you for every 10 miles of speed you are traveling. This should give you ample time to stop in case of an emergency.

GLOSSARY OF TIRE TERMINOLOGY

Accessory Weight – The combined weight (in excess of those standard items which may be replaced) of automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, radio and heater, to the extent that these items are available as factory-installed equipment (whether installed or not).

Bead – The part of the tire that is made of steel wires, wrapped or reinforced by ply cords and that is shaped to fit the rim.

Bead Separation – This is the breakdown of the bond between components in the bead.

Bias Ply Tire – A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at alternate angles substantially less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Carcass – The tire structure, except treat and sidewall rubber which, when inflated, bears the load.

Chunking – The breaking away of pieces of the tread or sidewall.

Cold Inflation Pressure – The pressure in the tire before you drive.

Cord – The strands forming the plies in the tire.

Cord Separation – The parting of the cords from adjacent rubber compounds.

Cracking – Any parting within the tread, sidewall, or inner liner of the tire extending to cord material.

CT – A pneumatic tire with an inverted flange tire and rim system in which the rim is designed with rim flanges pointed radially inward and the tire is designed to fit on the underside of the rim in a manner that encloses the rim flanges inside the air cavity of the tire.

Curb Weight – The weight of a motor vehicle with standard equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, and, if so equipped, air conditioning and additional weigh optional engine.

Extra Load Tire - A tire designed to operate at higher loads and at higher inflation pressures than the corresponding standard tire.

Groove – The space between two adjacent tread ribs.

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) – The maximum permissible weight of this fully loaded RV.

Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) – The value specified as the load carrying capacity of a single axle system, as measure at the tire-ground interfaces.

Hitch Weight – The vertical trailer load supported by the hitch ball.

Innerliner – The layer(s) forming the inside surface of a tubeless tire that contains the inflating medium within the tire.

Innerliner Separation – The parting of the inner line from cord material in the carcass.

Intended Outboard Sidewall – The sidewall that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same molding on the other sidewall of the tire or the outward facing sidewall of an asymmetrical tire than has a particular side that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.

Light Truck (LT) Tire – A tire designated by its manufacturer as primarily intended for use on lightweight trucks or multipurpose passenger vehicles.

Load Rating – The maximum load that a tire is rated to carry for a given inflation pressure.

Maximum Permissible Inflation Pressure – The maximum cold inflation pressure to which a tire may be inflated.

Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight – The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight.

Measuring Rim – The rim on which a tire is fitted for physical dimension requirements.

Non-Pneumatic Rim – A mechanical device which, when a non-pneumatic tire assembly incorporates a wheel, supports the tire, and attaches, either integrally or separably, to the wheel center member and upon which the tire is attached.

Non-pneumatic Spare Tire Assembly – A non-pneumatic tire assembly intended for temporary use in place of one of the pneumatic tires and rims that are fitted to a passenger car in compliance with the requirements of this standard.

Non-Pneumatic Tire – A mechanical device which transmits, either directly or through a wheel or wheel center member, the vertical load and tractive forces from the roadway to the vehicle, generates the tractive forces that provide the directional control of the vehicle and does not rely on the containment of any gas or fluid for providing those functions.

Non-pneumatic Tire Assembly – A non-pneumatic tire, alone or in combination with a wheel or wheel center member, which can be mounted on a vehicle.

Open Splice – Any parting at any junction of tread, sidewall, or innerliner that extends to cord material.

Outer Diameter – The overall diameter of an inflated new tire.

Overall Width – The linear distance between the exteriors of the sidewalls on an inflated tire, including elevations due to labeling, decorations, or protective bands or ribs.

Pin Weight – The vertical trailer load supported by the king pin of a fifth-wheel hitch.

Ply – A layer of rubber-coated parallel cords.

Ply Separation – A parting of rubber compound between adjacent plies.

Pneumatic Tire – A mechanical device made of rubber, chemicals, fabric and steel or other materials, that, when mounted on an automotive wheel, provides the traction and contains the gas or fluid that sustains the load.

Production Options Weight – The combined weight of those installed regular production options weighing over 23 kilograms (5lbs.) in excess of those standard items which they replace, not previously considered in curb weight or accessory weight, including heavy duty brakes, ride levelers, roof rack, heavy duty battery, and special trim.

Radial Ply Tire – A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at substantially 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Recommended Inflation Pressure – This is the inflation pressure provided by the vehicle manufacturer on the Tire Information label and on the Certification/VIN tag.

Reinforced Tire – A tire designed to operate at higher loads and at higher inflation pressures than the corresponding standard tire.

Rim – A metal support for a tire or a tire and tube assembly upon which the tire bears are seated.

Rim Diameter – This means the nominal diameter of the beat seat.

Rim Size Designation - This means the rim diameter and width.

Rim Type Designation – This means the industry of manufacturer’s designation for a rim by style or code.

Rim width – This means the nominal distance between rim flanges.

Section Width – The linear distance between the exteriors of the sidewalls of an inflated tire, excluding elevations due to labeling, decoration, or protective bands.

Sidewall – The portion of a tire between the tread and bead.

Sidewall Separation – The parting of the rubber compound from the core material in the sidewall.

Test Rim – The rim on which a tire is fitted for testing, and may be any rim listed as appropriate for use with that tire.

Tread – That portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.

Tread Rib – A tread section running circumferentially around a tire.

Tread Separation – Pulling away of the tread from the tire carcass.

Treadwear Indicators (TWI) – The projections within the principal grooves designed to give a visual indication of the degree of wear of the tread.

Vehicle Capacity Weight – The rated cargo and luggage load plus 68 kilograms (150 lbs.) times the vehicle’s designated seating capacity.

Vehicle Maximum Load On The Tire – The load on an individual tire that is determined by distributing to each axle its share of the maximum loaded vehicle weight and dividing by two.

Vehicle Normal Load On The Tire – The load on an individual tire that is determined by distributing to each axle its share of the curb weight, accessory weight, and normal occupant weight (distributed in accordance with Table I of CRF 49571.110) and dividing by 2.

Weather Side – The surface area of the rim not covered by the inflated tire.

Wheel Center Member – In the case of a non-pneumatic tire assembly incorporating a wheel, a mechanical device which attaches, either integrally or separably, to the non-pneumatic rim and provides the connection between the non-pneumatic rim and the vehicle; or, in the case of a non-pneumatic tire assembly not incorporating a wheel, a mechanical device which attaches, either integrally or separably, to the non-pneumatic tire and provides the connection between tires and the vehicle.

Wheel-holding Fixture – The fixture used to hold the wheel and tire assembly securely during testing.

Leveling

WARNING

FAILURE TO MAINTAIN ADEQUATE BRAKING DISTANCE BETWEEN YOUR VEHICLE AND THE VEHICLE OR ITEMS IN FRONT OF YOU CAN CAUSE PROPERTY DAMAGE, SERIOUS INJURY OR LOSS OF LIFE.

Set Up Procedures

This section outlines the procedures necessary to stabilize and set up your vehicle. Before attempting to set up the vehicle, carefully read and understand these instructions. Setting up your vehicle requires forethought and care.

Your vehicle is designed to be efficient and comfortable. Careful attention to detail and thoroughness during set up will ensure that you will benefit from all the features and comfort built into your vehicle.

During storage or after your vehicle has been set up, you may notice a slight rippling or waviness of the fiberglass exterior sidewall panels if your vehicle is sitting in the sun. This is caused by the normal expansion of the materials as they warm up. As the temperature goes down these panels will tend to return to their original shape. This condition is typical and is not covered under the HEARTLAND RECREATIONAL VEHICLES, LLC warranty.

Leveling and Stabilization

Leveling of your trailer at the site is essential. A level trailer is not only necessary for comfort but your refrigerator must be level in order to operate properly. Stabilization is recommended to keep the vehicle from bouncing while unhitched when people are moving inside the vehicle.

Stabilizer jacks are intended to stabilize the vehicle body while the vehicle’s full weight is supported by the hitch jack (conventional vehicles) or landing gear (5th Wheel trailers) and running gear. Stabilizer jacks are not designed to lift or support its entire weight. If your coach is equipped with a slide out, be sure to level main unit before extending the rooms.

Leveling Procedures for a Conventional RV

1. If the site is not an asphalt pad, concrete slab or other prepared surface, be sure it is as level as possible. Be sure the ground surface is not soft and will support the weight of the trailer on the stabilizing jacks or other support devices.
2. Before uncoupling, level the vehicle from side to side with suitable lengths of 2” x 6” wood blocks under the trailer wheels. Place the 2” x 6” wood blocks on the ground surface forward of the vehicle wheels, and pull the trailer onto the 2” x 6” blocks. Block the trailer wheels so the trailer cannot roll.
3. Unhook the 12 volt connector and the breakaway switch cable from the tow vehicle.
4. Activate the power jack switch, or use the hand crank, to slightly raise the front of the trailer hitch to relieve the hitch pressure. Release the hitch latch disengaging the locking bar. If applicable, slightly rock the tow vehicle in reverse to disengage locking bar. Pull forward slightly and raise the recreational vehicle hitch to clear the tow vehicle hitch. Move the tow vehicle away from the recreation vehicle.
5. Level the vehicle front to rear. It may be necessary to place a sturdy 2” x 6” wood block under the jack post to support the jack post on soft ground surfaces.
6. Check the level of the vehicle with a carpenter’s level both crosswise and lengthwise on the vehicle floor. To assure reasonable level at the refrigerator, use the round bubble level inside the refrigerator. Acceptable level is when the bubble is within the marked area of the bubble level.
7. After stabilizing the vehicle, be sure the vehicle frame is not twisted, buckled, or stressed. Check that all doors and windows operate freely and do not bind.
8. Connect the shore power, open the LP-Gas valves at the LP tanks and connect the fresh water supply and the water systems if necessary. If applicable, start the refrigerator, water heater and furnace.

notice

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO RAISE OR OTHERWISE PLACE ALL OF THE WEIGHT OF THE TRAILER ON THE STABILIZER JACKS. STABILIZER JACKS ON THE TRAILER WITH SLIDE ROOMS SHOULD NOT BE PLACED AT EXTREME CORNERS OF THE FRAME. LOCATING STABILIZERS IN THESE LOCATIONS CAN CAUSE SLIDE ROOM DAMAGE SHOULD LEVELING BLOCKS SHIFT OR SETTLE.

CAUTION

AFTERMARKET STABILIZER STANDS MUST BE PLACED ONLY UNDER CHASSIS FRAME RAILS. Improper placement of stabilizer stands could cause instability and structural damage to the unit.

Fifth Wheel Landing Legs Operation

The landing legs of the trailer are intended for positioning the RV during hook-up and unhooking from the tow vehicle. The landing legs also support the trailer during camping and storage. The legs are not designed for the sole support of the fifth wheel weight during tire changes or servicing.

CAUTION

THE LANDING LEG WEIGHT RATING IS 3,500 LBS. PER LEG. DO NOT EXCEED THE WEIGHT RATING.

THE LEGS MAY BIND IN OVERLOAD CONDITIONS. THIS WILL RESULT IN PREMATURE WEAR OF THE DRIVE GEAR AND STRIPPING OF THE GEAR. PREMATURE GEAR WEAR WILL ALSO OCCUR WITH EXCESSIVE CLUTCHING OF THE MOTOR. THIS OCCURS AT MAXIMUM EXTENSION AND RETRACTION. ONCE CLUTCH NOISE IS HEARD, RELEASE THE SWITCH.

TO LOWER LEGS WITH ELECTRIC or HYDRAULIC MOTOR:

Push the switch, located at the front of the trailer, to the extend position and hold until the landing legs raise the vehicle to the desired height. Extend and retract indicate the travel direction of the legs, not the fifth wheel.

TO RAISE LEGS WITH ELECTRIC or HYDRAULIC MOTOR:

Push the switch, located at the front of the trailer, to the retract position and hold until the legs are fully retracted. Release the toggle switch as the lock pins in the landing legs near the end of the outside tubes to avoid unnecessary wear on the motor clutch.

LANDING LEGS MAY WORK WITH HANDLE IF THE ELECTRIC DRIVE MOTOR IS INOPERATIVE OR IF ELECTRICITY IS UNAVAILABLE.

WARNING

REMOVE THE HANDLE BEFORE USING THE ELECTRIC MOTOR; THE HANDLE MAY JERK, CAUSING INJURY. BEFORE TOWING, CHECK FOR MAXIMUM CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE GROUND AND THE BOTTOM OF THE LANDING GEAR.

TO LOWER LEGS MANUALLY:

Insert the crank handle into the alignment tube until the end engages the crank shaft. The shaft is located at the front of the trailer. Turn the crank handle counterclockwise to raise vehicle to the desired height. Remove and store the handle.

TO RAISE LEGS MANUALLY:

Insert the crank handle into the alignment tube until the end engages the crank shaft. The shaft is located at the front of the trailer. Turn the crank handle clockwise to lower vehicle to the desired height. Remove and store the handle.

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

Before each use inspect the drop tube and the inner ram tube, replace if they are bent or damaged

Annually

• Extend landing legs as far as possible; clean the drop tube and the inner ram tube.
• Coat the exposed surface of tubes and the inside of the handle alignment tube with a silicone spray lubricant.
• Oil the shaft bushing in gear box and leg gear heads with SAE 30 oil.
• Lubricate the gears in the gear box and the landing leg gear heads with extreme pressure grease.

Every Six Months (Electric Drive Motor)

• Check the wiring connections at the battery.
• Clean the terminals with a solution of baking soda and water.
• Cover the terminals with a thin coat of grease.

THE ELECTRIC DRIVE MOTOR IS LUBRICATED AT THE FACTORY AND REQUIRES NO FURTHER LUBRICATION.

Stabilizer Jacks

Stabilizing jacks, located at the rear corner on the trailer are permanently attached and operated from a standing position. These jacks are for stabilizing only. Primary leveling should be done with wheel ramps and front landing legs. Lower the stabilizing jacks until they contact the ground firmly. Place wooden blocks under the pads if necessary.

WARNING

THE STABILIZER JACK(S) MUST NOT BE USED FOR LEVELING ON UNEVEN GROUND OR TO CHANGE TIRES. NEVER USE JACK(S) TO ELEVATE ANY WHEEL OFF THE GROUND. DAMAGE TO THE STABILIZER JACK(S) AND RECREATIONAL VEHICLE FRAME CAN OCCUR.

Power Systems

HEARTLAND RECREATIONAL VEHICLES, LLC provides one of two different power systems. Your coach has either the 30-amp or the 50-amp service detailed below.

30-amp/110-Volt Service

If you have 30-amp service, your power cord will look like this typical 30-amp power cord, which pulls out of the unit.

30-amp service is also 110-volt service, but it is capable of running up to 30-amps of draw. 30-amp service has only one prong that carries 110 volts of AC power.

50-Amp/110-Volt Service

If you have 50-amp service, your power cord will look like this typical 50-amp power cord, which attaches to the unit.

50-amp service is also 110-volt service, but it is capable of running up 50-amps of load. Some people believe that 50-amp service is the same as having 220-volts of AC power. Yes, 50-amps of service does have 220-volts, but only 110-volts is capable of being supplied to any part of your system at any given time. A unique, four-pronged power cord identifies 50-amp service, as two of the four prongs each carry 110-volts of AC power. Each of the 110-volt lines in a 50-amp cord supplies power to a designated part of your RV. In doing this, when 110-volt AC powered components are installed they can be put on separate power feeds according to how much amperage they draw. One example of this method consists of installing two air conditioners for use at the same time. Each one is powered by a different power supply feed with the 50-amp power cord; therefore they can both be used simultaneously.

WARNING

MAKE SURE YOUR POWER SUPPLY (SHORELINE HOOKUP) IS PROPERLY GROUNDED! IF YOUR POWER SUPPLY TO THE TRAILER IS NOT GROUNDED YOU WILL EXPERIENCE A DANGEROUS SHOCK WHEN STANDING ON THE GROUND AND TOUCHING A METAL PORTION OF YOUR TRAILER! USE A CONTINUITY TESTER TO ENSURE PROPER POWER SUPPLY!

CAUTION

DO NOT USE AN EXTENSION CORD WITH A CURRENT RATING LESS THAN THE AMPERAGE YOUR RV REQUIRES. EXTRA EXTENSION CORDS REDUCE THE AMPERAGE AND VOLTAGE BEING SUPPLIED TO THE RV AND MAY CAUSE DAMAGE TO ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS, INCLUDING THE SHORELINE CORD.

IF YOU TRAVEL TO AN RV PARK THAT DOES NOT OFFER THE APPROPRIATE AMP SERVICE YOUR COACH REQUIRES, YOU WILL HAVE TO USE AN ADAPTER TO HOOK UP TO SHORE POWER. USE OF AN ADAPTER IS NOT RECOMMENDED, BUT MAY NOT BE AVOIDABLE. WHEN USING AN ADAPTER, REMEMBER THAT YOUR COACH WILL NOT HAVE SUFFICIENT POWER TO RUN AS MANY OPTIONS AS WITH FULL-AMP SERVICE. YOU MAY BE ABLE TO RUN BOTH YOUR AIR CONDITIONERS FOR A LIMITED TIME: HOWEVER, THIS WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO BOTH YOUR AC UNITS AS WELL AS OTHER COMPONENTS BY OPERATING THEM WITH INSUFFICIENT POWER.

AMP Usage

Listed below are components that might be used in HEARTLAND RECREATIONAL VEHICLES, LLC vehicles and the typical maximum amperage draw each one has. This chart may help you decide which components you can safely use for an extended period without damage.

Components Roof air conditioners (each) Electric water heater Microwaves Hair dryer TV DVD Charger Refrigerator 110-volt lamp

Amperage 15 12 12 8 4 5 14 3.5 1.0

Power Convertor

Your vehicle is equipped with an electrical power convertor that changes 110-volt power to 12-volt power to run 12-volt powered appliances in your vehicle. It gets the 110-volt power by way of the shoreline (shown previously). Shown here is the circuit breaker/fuse box for the 110V electrical system.

Circuit Breakers

Circuit breakers and fuses protect the circuits in the vehicle. Locate the converter and see where the fuses are located. If you blow a fuse, turn off the appliance. Unplug the fuse. Check the fuse for breakage and replace it with a new fuse of the proper rating. If the fuse continues to fail, contact your nearest dealer. NEVER REPLACE A FUSE WITH A HIGHER RATED FUSE THAN WHAT IS DESIGNATED.

WARNING

NEVER REPLACE CIRCUIT BREAKERS OR FUSES OF HIGHER CURRENT RATING THAN THOSE ORIGINALLY INSTALLED. THIS COULD OVERHEAT THE WIRING AND START A FIRE, POSSIBLY RESULTING IN PROPERTY DAMAGE, PERSONAL INJURY OR LOSS OF LIFE.

Electrical System

Your electrical system is a combination of 12-volt and 110-volt systems, every facet carefully engineered and installed to comply with the “National Electric Code”.

The combination system consists of:

1. 12-volt automotive system – DC.
2. 110-volt outside power source – AC.

110-Volt System

This is supplied by plugging the power cord into an outside 110-volt receptacle. It furnishes current to 110-volt roof air conditioners, refrigerator and all internal 110-volt receptacles. It also supplies power for the 12-volt trailer system through the converter.

The 110-volt circuits are protected by resettable circuit breakers, similar to the ones you would find in your home. Depending on your recreational vehicle the number of 110 volt appliances available, the circuit panel may have a 50 amp main or a 30 amp main breaker. All breakers are labeled for what appliance they protect and maximum amperage for the circuit breaker.

Your bathroom, kitchen and exterior receptacles are protected by a highly sensitive device known as a “Ground Fault Interrupter”, which is designed to sense the slightest electrical “short” at those receptacles and instantly disconnect the current before a person can be injured.

This device protects against fault currents only. It does NOT protect against over current.

The GFI receptacle is located in the bathroom; it should be tested at least once a month for maximum protection. To test the GFI receptacle push the TEST button. The RESET button will pop out. Power is now off at the outlets protected by the RESET button during the test and indicates the device is functioning properly. If the RESET button does not pop out when testing, do not use any outlets on this circuit. Protection is lost. Call your dealer if this device malfunctions. After a successful test, restore power by pushing RESET. Your test is complete when the RESET button stays pushed in.

This connection is for low-voltage battery or direct current only. Do not connect to 120 or 240 volts ac.

Battery

Your trailer, in most cases, needs to be equipped with a 12 volt battery. Check the electrolyte fluid levels on a regular basis, especially during hot weather conditions. Refill as necessary with either distilled water or clean tap water in an emergency. DO NOT ALLOW THE FLUID LEVELS IN THE BATTERIES TO FALL BELOW THE INTERNAL BATTERY PLATES. DAMAGE TO THE BATTERIES MAY RESULT AND SHORTEN THE LIFE OF THE BATTERIES.

WARNING

DO NOT ALLOW THE BATTERY FLUID TO CONTACT YOUR SKIN, EYES, FABRIC OR PAINTED SURFACES. THE FLUID COULD CAUSE SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY OR PROPERTY DAMAGE. WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN WORKING WITH ANY BATTERY.

When charging the battery(s), do not charge at such a fast rate as to cause spewing of the electrolyte from the cells. If your battery has problems prior to the end of their warranty period, consult the nearest representative of the battery manufacturer.

When it is time to replace the batteries, be sure to replace them with quality batteries of equal electrical and physical properties. Contact your nearest dealer for advice in the selection of new batteries.

CAUTION

DO NOT ALLOW CORROSION TO DEVELOP ON THE BATTERY TERMINALS. CORRODED TERMINALS CAN CAUSE A LOSS OF AVAILABLE POWER, CUT DOWN ON THE EFFICIENCY OF THE CHARGING/ELECTRICAL SYSTEM, OR POSSIBLE BATTERY FAILURE.

WARNING

DO NOT SMOKE OR USE AN OPEN FLAME AROUND BATTERIES. AVOID MAKING ELECTRICAL SPARKS NEAR BATTERIES. FUMES FROM THE BATTERIES ARE COMBUSTIBLE.

The batteries should be removed and stored in a warm place when not used in your vehicle for an extended period of time (i.e. more than 60 days). Mark the cables, positive and negative, for easy identification. Batteries are not to be stored on concrete floors. The batteries require periodic charging during storage. If the vehicle is to be stored for a long period of time, it is recommended that all of the batteries inside the unit be removed from clocks, radios, smoke alarms, etc. This will prevent unnecessary drain and corrosion of the batteries.

Battery Types and Charging

Only similar batteries should be connected together in one bank if you choose to have more than one battery. Do not connect old and new batteries, or wet and gel cell batteries together. Deep-cycle batteries are usually rated in Amp-hours, which is based on a 20-hour discharge rate. Therefore, a 100 amp-hour battery can deliver 5 amps for 20 hours. Deep-cycle batteries can be discharged about 80% of capacity before damage occurs. Shallow cycling (50-60% drain before recharge) will result in much longer battery life.

To find out how long your batteries will last when using various equipment in your coach, research the amperage of the items in use, and use that number to gauge what size amp-hour battery you think you need. Keep in mind that you should recharge your batteries when they are 50% discharged, so only half the amp-hour rating is actually used.

Your battery will be charged slowly when the trailer is hooked up to the tow vehicle by the tow vehicle’s electrical system. The converter will also charge your battery when the trailer is plugged into shore power.

Battery Disconnect Panel

On some models, this is done to prevent the coach batteries from being drained during storage. It disconnects all the 12 volt circuitry from the batteries. When taking the unit out of storage, turn to re-connect the batteries. This will make the 12-volt system ready for use.

Monitor Panel

Your vehicle has a monitor panel that can provide you with important information about various systems on the RV. This panel also houses the water pump switch.

This monitor panel will give you information including:

• How much potable (fresh) water remains.
• How full your black (sewage) tank is.
• How full your gray (waste water) tank is.

THE MONITOR PANEL WILL GIVE FALSE READINGS IF THE SENSORS IN THE HOLDING TANKS ARE COVERED WITH DEBRIS. CLEAN YOUR WASTE HOLDING TANKS FREQUENTLY WITH APPROVED TREATMENTS.

GENERATORS

IMPORTANT: MAKE SURE TO READ AND UNDERSTAND THE GENERATOR OWNER’S MANUAL BEFORE OPERATING THE GENERATOR.

Some RVs are equipped with onboard generators, or designed with generator compartments designed for specific types of generators that make your RV fully self-contained. There are also portable generators that are designed to be used with RVs. Keep in mind that generator exhaust contains carbon monoxide and is deadly! Observe all operating instructions and warnings as well as all recommended maintenance schedules and procedures outlined in the generator owner’s manual. NEVER sleep in the RV with the generator running!

Test the carbon monoxide detector every time you use the RV.

Before you start and use the generator inspect the exhaust system. Do not use it if the exhaust system is damaged.

Know what the symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning are:

• Dizziness • Muscular twitching

• Weakness • Sleepiness

• Nausea • Vomiting

• Intense headache • Throbbing in the temples

• Inability to think coherently

If you or anyone else experience any of these symptoms get to fresh air immediately. Shut the generator down and do not operate it until it has been inspected and repaired by a professional. If the symptoms persist seek medical attention immediately.

1. DO NOT operate the generator while sleeping. You would not be aware of exhaust entering the RV, or alert to symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning.
2. NEVER store anything in the generator compartment. Always keep compartment clean and dry.
3. NEVER use a portable generator in the generator compartment. The generator compartment is designed for onboard generators and exhausted accordingly.
4. DO NOT operate the generator in an enclosed building or in a partly enclosed area such as a garage, or underneath any portion of the RV, including slide-outs.
5. Review the safety precautions for fuel and exhaust fumes elsewhere in this manual.
6. DO NOT operate the generator when the RV is positioned in high grass or brush. Heat from the exhaust could cause a fire in dry conditions.
7. DO NOT simultaneously operate generator and a ventilator which could result in the entry of exhaust gas. When exhaust ventilators are used, we recommend that a window on the opposite side of the RV “upwind” of exhaust gases be opened to provide cross ventilation.
8. When parked, orient the RV so that the wind will carry the exhaust away from the RV. DO NOT open nearby windows, ventilators, or doors into the passenger compartment, particularly those which can be “down wind”, even part of the time.
9. If using a portable generator, make sure the generator is OUTSIDE in a well-ventilated area and as FAR AWAY from the RV as possible. Position the portable generator so the wind will carry the exhaust away from the RV. DO NOT open nearby windows, doors, or vents.
10. DO NOT operate the generator when parked in close proximity to vegetation, snow, buildings, vehicles, or any other object that could deflect the exhaust under or into the vehicle.
11. DO NOT touch the generator when running, or immediately after shutting off. Heat from the generator can cause burns. Allow the generator to cool before attempting maintenance or service.

DANGER

DANGER CARBON MONOXIDE: Generator exhaust contains carbon monoxide. This is a colorless, odorless, poison you cannot see or smell and can cause unconsciousness and death. If you start to feel dizzy or weak, get to fresh air immediately. · NEVER use a portable generator inside the RV, inside the garage, inside the generator compartment of the RV, or under the RV or slide-out rooms. Using a generator indoors can KILL YOU IN MINUTES. · Only use OUTSIDE and far away from the RV and windows, doors, slide-outs, vents, or any other opening. · DO NOT allow exhaust fumes to enter a confined area through windows, doors, vents, or other openings. · Read your generator manufacturer’s owner’s manual, and your HRV owner’s manual prior to operating a generator and follow all instructions regarding the operation and use of the generator.

Fire Safety

LP Gas System

WARNING

IF YOU SMELL GAS: EXTINGUISH ANY OPEN FLAMES, PILOT LIGHTS AND ALL SMOKING MATERIALS. DO NO TOUCH ELECTRICAL SWITCHES. SHUT OFF THE GAS SUPPLY AT THE TANK VALVE(S) OR GAS SUPPLY CONNECTION. OPEN DOORS AND OTHER VENTILATION OPENINGS. LEAVE THE AREA UNTIL ODOR CLEARS. HAVE THE GAS SYSTEM CHECKED AND LEAKAGE SOURCE CORRECTED BEFORE USING AGAIN.

WARNING

A warning label has been located near the LP gas container. This label reads: DO NOT FILL CONTAINER(S) TO MORE THAN 80 PERCENT OF CAPACITY. Overfilling the LP gas container can result in uncontrolled gas flow, which can cause fire or explosion. A properly filled container will contain approximately 80 percent of its volume as liquid LP gas. Safety regulation prevents filling over 80 percent.

WARNING

Portable fuel-burning equipment, including wood and charcoal grills and stoves, must not be used inside the recreational vehicle. The use of this equipment inside the recreational vehicle may cause fires or asphyxiation.

WARNING

Storage of LP gas containers, gasoline or other flammable liquids inside your vehicle – even for short periods of time – presents a risk of fire and/or explosion. All flammable liquids should be stored safely in a well-ventilated area outside your vehicle and in proper containers.

WARNING

LP gas regulators must always be installed with the diaphragm vent facing downward. Regulators that are not in compartments have been equipped with a protective cover. Make sure that the regulator vent faces downward and that the cover is kept in place to minimize vent blockage which could result in excessive gas pressure causing a fire or explosion.

WARNING

All pilot lights, appliances and their igniters (see operating instructions) shall be turned off during refueling of motor fuel tanks and/or propane containers. Failure to comply can result in death or serious injury.

Liquid Propane (LP) gas, when properly handled, is a clean burning, dependable fuel for all your LP gas appliances. The LP tank or tanks mounted on your unit contain liquid under high pressure. The liquid vaporizes into a gas and passes through the regulator which automatically reduces the gas pressure. The low pressure gas is then distributed to the appliances. The arrow on the automatic gas regulator will always point to the gas tank in service. When the red flag appears in the inspection glass this indicates that the tank is empty. The arrow should be turned to allow the full tank to pressurize the system and the empty tank should be filled as soon as possible.

Each tank has an automatic eighty percent stop-fill valve that allows space in the tank for vapor expansion. The high pressure vapor in the tank is reduced in two stages as it makes its way to your appliance. The tank pressure will vary with temperature and altitude, but it may be in the range of 100 to 250 pounds per square inch (psi) or more. It is reduced by a pressure regulator to about 12 psi in the first stage and then to about 6.35 ounces in the second stage. The 6.35 ounces can also be expressed as 11 inches of water column.

The LP gas system is designed and built to rigid standards and tested before leaving the factory. Your dealer also tests the system prior to customer delivery.

NOTE

YOUR DEALER IS RESPONSIBLE FOR A THOROUGH LP GAS SYSTEM CHECK PRIOR TO DELIVERY. DO NOT ACCEPT THE UNIT UNTIL THIS CHECK HAS BEEN COMPLETED.

Except for simple maintenance and occasionally tightening a connection, you should take your unit to an authorized dealer for LP gas problems. An authorized LP supplier should always fill the LP gas tank.

WARNING

LP-GAS CYLINDERS SHALL NOT BE PLACED OR STORED INSIDE THE VEHICLE. LP-GAS CYLINDERS ARE EQUIPPED WITH SAFETY DEVICES THAT RELIEVE EXCESSIVE PRESSURE BY DISCHARGING GAS TO THE ATMOSPHERE. FAILURE TO COMPLY COULD RESULT IN DEATH OR SERIOUS INJURY.

YOUR UNIT’S MANUFACTURER IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR PERSONAL INJURY OR PROPERTY DAMAGE RESULTING FROM IMPROPERLY MAINTAINED LP GAS APPLIANCES AND SYSTEMS.

CAUTION

THIS GAS PIPING SYSTEM IS DESIGNED FOR USE WITH LP-GAS ONLY. DO NOT CONNECT NATURAL GAS TO THIS SYSTEM. SECURELY CAP THIS INLET WHEN NOT CONNECTED FOR USE. AFTER TURNING ON GAS, EXCEPT AFTER NORMAL CYLINDER REPLACEMENT, TEST GAS PIPING AND CONNECTIONS TO APPLIANCE FOR LEAKAGE WITH SOAPY WATER OR BUBBLE SOLUTION. DO NOT USE PRODUCTS THAT CONTAIN AMMONIA OR CHLORINE.

WARNING

NEVER ADJUST THE REGULATOR YOURSELF. HAVE YOUR DEALER OR AN AUTHORIZED SERVICE TECHNICIAN MAKE ANY REQUIRED ADJUSTMENTS.

Filling LP Gas Bottles

When your LP gas tank is empty, have it refilled as soon as possible. There are many LP refueling stations available. Many RV parks also have LP gas available. Caution your supplier not to over fill your tank. Room is required to let the liquid vaporize.

There are approximately 90,000 BTUs of heat produced from each gallon of LP gas. During extreme cold temperatures, check fuel tanks frequently to avoid running out of fuel.

Make sure that all burners and pilot lights are turned OFF prior to having a gas supplier refill your LP tank.

1. Make sure the arrow on the cylinder selector is pointed to the full cylinder. (Verify the hose route to the full cylinder on a split system.)
2. Close the valve on the empty cylinder and remove the hose from the valve. (NOTE: left hand thread).
3. Loosen the clamp that holds the cylinder in place.
4. Remove the cylinder and have it refilled.
5. Slide the cylinder back in place and tighten clamp.
6. Connect the left-hand hose and tighten securely

The 80 percent STOP FILL VALVE may close the valve before liquid appears at the 20 percent liquid level gauge, but if liquid does appear, stop filling immediately…the tank is filled to its LP capacity.

YOUR LP TANKS MUST BE KEPT FREE OF RUST AT ALL TIMES. IF RUST DOES DEVELOP, THE TANK SHOULD BE CLEANED COMPLETELY FREE OF THE RUST, PRIMED, AND PAINTED WHITE (OR SOME OTHER HIGHLY REFLECTIVE COLOR) WHICH WILL HELP TO REDUCE EXPANSION OF THE LP GAS BECAUSE OF HEAT.

Do not use a wrench to tighten the service valve or the 20 percent gauge. They are both designed to be closed leak-tight by hand. If you cannot hand-tighten the valve, the valve may need repair or replacement. Consult your gas dealer.

DANGER

IF YOU SMELL PROPANE Extinguish any open flames, pilot lights and all smoking materials. Do not touch electrical switches. Shut off the propane supply at the container valve(s) or propane supply connection. Open doors and other ventilating openings. Leave the area until odor clears. Have the propane system checked and leakage source corrected before using again. FAILURE TO COMPLY COULD RESULT IN EXPLOSION RESULTING IN DEATH OR SERIOUS INJURY.

LP Gas Lines

The primary manifold is a black pipe located under the unit. Copper tubing with flare fittings are used as secondary lines running to the gas appliances. Should any lines ever rupture, NEVER attempt to splice them. A new line should always be installed. We recommend any LP gas line services be performed by your dealer or an authorized service technician. Always close main valve at LP tank when servicing any gas appliance. This prevents any gas leakage which could result in an explosion or cause serious bodily injury.

WARNING

NEVER CHECK GAS LINES FOR LEAKS WITH AN OPEN FLAME. DO NOT CHECK FOR LEAKS USING AMMONIATED OR CHLORINATED HOUSEHOLD TYPE DETERGENTS. THESE DETERGENTS CAN CAUSE CRACKS TO FORM ON THE METAL TUBING AND BRASS FITTINGS. TAKE THE UNIT TO A QUALIFIED LP GAS SERVICE TECHNICIAN TO FIND AND REPAIR THE LEAK. KEEP THE TANK VALVE CLOSED AND ALL OF THE APPLIANCES TURNED OFF WHEN THE UNIT IS STORED. IF ANY OF THE LP GAS VALVES DO NOT CLOSE LEAK-TIGHT BY HAND, CONSULT A SERVICE TECHNICIAN.

Although your LP gas system was thoroughly inspected for leaks before delivery, gas fittings can loosen from vibration during travel. Your LP gas system should be inspected at least every three months and before every trip. If a leak is suspected, check immediately!

Precautions and Recommendations

• Inspect LP fill valve for foreign material before refueling.
• Shut off tow vehicle and pilot lights when refueling gas tanks.
• Never check for gas leaks with an open flame match, etc.
• Visually inspect gas lines for any problem periodically.
• Have dealer inspect gas systems yearly and before and after long trips. Always have a qualified technician check and make any repairs in your gas system.

This gas piping system is designed for use of liquefied petroleum gas only. Do not connect natural gas to this system. Do not fill container(s) to more than 80 percent of capacity. Securely cap inlet(s) when not connected for use. After turning on gas, except after normal container replacement, test gas piping and connections to appliances for leakage with soapy water or bubble solution. Do not use products that contain ammonia or chlorine.

WARNING

ALL PILOT LIGHTS, APPLIANCES AND THEIR IGNITERS (SEE OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS) MUST BE TURNED OFF DURING REFUELING OF MOTOR FUEL TANKS AND/OR LP GAS CONTAINERS.

WARNING

THIS SYSTEM IS DESIGNED FOR USE WITH PROPANE ONLY: DO NOT CONNECT NATURAL GAS TO THIS SYSTEM. BEFORE TURNING ON PROPANE: BE CERTAIN APPLIANCES ARE CERTIFIED FOR PROPANE AND ARE EQUIPPED WITH CORRECT BURNER ORIFICES. MAKE CERTAIN ALL PROPANE CONNECTIONS ARE TIGHT BY TESTING WITH SOAPY WATER, ALL APPLIANCE VALVES ARE TURNED OFF, AND ANY UNCONNECTED OUTLETS ARE CAPPED. AFTER TURNING ON PROPANE: LIGHT ALL PILOTS. ALL CONNECTIONS, INCLUDING THOSE AT THE APPLIANCES, REGULATORS, AND CYLINDERS, SHOULD BE LEAK-TESTED PERIODICALLY WITH SOAPY WATER BY THE OCCUPANT. NEVER USE A LIGHTED MATCH OR OTHER FLAME WHEN CHECKING FOR LEAKS. DO NOT LEAVE SYSTEM TURNED ON OR CONTAINERS CONNECTED UNTIL THE SYSTEM HAS BEEN PROVEN TO BE FREE OF ANY LEAKS. COOKING APPLIANCES SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR SPACE HEATING. WHEN THE CONTAINERS ARE DISCONNECTED, THE PROPANE SUPPLY LINE SHOULD BE CAPPED OR PLUGGED.

Climate Differences

The appliances in your vehicle will not function if the LP gas does not vaporize. Propane will continue to vaporize down to -44 degrees F.

Propane has become the main type of LP gas used in RVs in recent years. Butane should not be used. The LP gas dealer will have the correct type or blend for his locale. If you plan on traveling from a warm climate to a cold climate, check with your local gas dealer to see if the blend he supplies is appropriate for the part of the country you plan on visiting.

Operation

To operate any LP gas appliance, the LP gas tank’s service valve must be OPEN. When first used, or after a refill, there may be some air in the gas lines that will escape when the range burner or similar gas valve is opened. The air may extinguish the match or igniter the first time or two you attempt to light a stove burner.

Also remember that when you close the tank’s service valve, some gas will remain in the lines. To completely bleed the lines of gas, close the tank valve and light the range burner. When the flame burns out, turn off the appliance.

Regulator Pressure

Have the gas regulator checked at beginning of each season and whenever a problem occurs. Proper line pressure is 11 inches of water column. Your RV dealer or gas supplier can perform this needed check.

Gas Line Check

Check the gas line connectors and all other connections regularly. To check, turn OFF all burners and pilot lights. Open all doors and windows. OPEN the LP gas tank’s service valve and use soapy water or an approved leak detector fluid to test all line connections. Do not use products that contain AMMONIA or CHLORINE. The appearance of bubbles in the soapy solution indicates a leak. Tighten the connections with two (2) open-end wrenches until the bubbles stop. If this does not take care of the leak, contact your gas dealer. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.

Gas Tank and Regulator Freeze-Up

LP gas regulator freeze-up can be prevented if owners are aware of the causes. Freeze-up may be caused by one of the following: moisture in the tank, an overfilled tank or a greater vapor withdrawal demand than the tank can deliver at a particular temperature.

Freeze-up occurs more frequently in cold weather since liquid gas does not vaporize as quickly. This, along with a higher demand, can cause frost on the tank and regulator.

Be sure to have your LP gas supplier add ANHYDROUS METHANOL before filling the tank in cold weather.

Moisture may enter the tank in the LP gas through condensation if air is allowed to enter the tank through an open valve. This can be avoided by using moisture-free gas and keeping all tank valves CLOSED during storage. If moisture is present, have the tank purged by an authorized dealer and have him add the proper amount of ANHYDROUS METHANOL for your tank. An overfilled tank can allow liquid gas, rather than the needed vapor, to flow through the regulator. This can result in erratic regulator delivery pressure, improper appliance operation and possible frosting of the regulator and gas line. This can be avoided by following the procedures outlined in the Filling LP Gas Bottles section. Always contact your local gas supplier for current procedures.

Hose Replacement

The flexible LP gas hoses connected to your LP tank should be checked frequently for signs of deterioration and may need to be replaced every two to three years. Be sure to replace the hoses with approved and properly rated products.

Regulator Vent Maintenance

Since the LP gas regulator is equipped with a vent that allows the system to “breathe”, you must check it on a frequent basis to see that is does not become clogged. If dirt, sealant or corrosion clogs the vent, clean it with a toothbrush or similar device. At least once a year have your LP service provider check the regulator adjustment and operation.

LP Gas Detector

Liquid Propane (LP) gas is heavier than air and will settle to the lowest point of the room, which is generally on the floor of your coach. Because of this, the LP detector installed in your coach is located near the floor. The detector is also sensitive to other fumes, such as hair spray, which contain butane as the propellant. Butane, like propane, is heavier than air and will settle to the floor level where it may be detected.

The detector is equipped with a “sensor activation strip”. This strip must be removed for the detector to operate properly. This should have been done during the dealer’s pre-delivery inspection. Please check the detector to verify that the activation strip has been removed.

Please consult your LP detector User’s Guide for more detailed information

WARNING

A WARNING LABEL LOCATED IN THE COOKING AREA REMINDS YOU TO PROVIDE AN ADEQUATE SUPPLY OF FRESH AIR FOR COMBUSTION. UNLIKE HOMES, THE AMOUNT OF OXYGEN SUPPLIED IS LIMITED DUE TO THE SIZE OF THE RECREATIONAL VEHICLE; PROPER VENTILATION WHEN USING THE COOKING APPLIANCE(S) WILL AVOID DANGER OF ASPHYXIATION. IT IS ESPECIALLY IMPORTANT TO ENSURE A FLOW OF FRESH AIR WHEN THE APPLIANCE IS USED FOR LONG PERIODS OF TIME.

WARNING

THIS IS NOT SAFE TO USE COOKING APPLIANCES FOR COMFORT HEATING. Cooking appliances need fresh air for safe operation. Before operation: Open overhead vent or turn on exhaust fan. Open window. FAILURE TO COMPLY COULD RESULT IN DEATH OR SERIOUS INJURY.

Plumbing

Appliances

Equipment

This section covers the basic operation and care of various equipment found in your Heartland RV. More detailed information as well as CAUTION or WARNING instructions about specific equipment may be found in each product manufacturer’s manual. Optional equipment will also be discussed in this section which does not apply to all vehicles.

Entry Step

Entry steps folds under the vehicle when traveling. To extend step, pull assembly out from underneath the vehicle. Bottom step is folded over second step – roll bottom step out and down after step assembly is extended. To store steps, fold bottom step up over second step and push assembly underneath the vehicle.

Lubricating the Mechanism: Lubricate the mechanism every 30-60 days. Carefully clean the area around the pivot points (the rivets involved in the motion of the mechanism). After cleaning, lubricate the pivot point between the pelt (to pinpoint this area locate the washer between the parts). An automotive grade, non-staining lubricant is recommended.

Covering Nicks & Scratches: Seal a nick or scratch with automotive grade primer to prevent rust. Once the nick or scratch has been sealed, cover the damaged area with an automotive grade or high-gloss paint.

CAUTION

TO PREVENT THE POSSIBILITY OF SLIPPING ON THE ENTRY STEP AVOID EXCESS LUBRICANT ON THE SURFACE OF THE ENTRY STEP ITSELF. CAREFULLY CLEAN THE ENTIRE ENTRY STEP AFTER LUBRICATING THE MECHANISM.

SILICONE LUBRICANTS AND WD-40 ARE NOT RECOMMENDED AS THEY TEND TO EVAPORATE AND DRY THE MATED SURFACES WHICH LEAVES THEM VULNERABLE TO THE ELEMENTS.

NOTICE

IF THE VEHICLE IS TRANSPORTED WITH THE STEP IN THE EXTENDED POSITION THERE IS POSSIBILITY OF CAUSING MAJOR DAMAGE TO BOTH THE STEP AND THE VEHICLE.

Entry Door

The door uses two separate locks for personal safety and security. The door handle incorporates a primary and secondary latching system. One locking system is the door handle and the other is a dead bolt. However, keeping the entry door in good operating condition requires some routine maintenance. The following adjustments can help maintain the entry door performance.

The position of the striker plate may change over the course of time and settlement of the recreational vehicle. The setting may need to be adjusted to insure that the door operates smoothly and efficiently. To adjust the strike plate, loosen the two screws holding the plate to the jamb system. Move the plate in or out as needed to obtain a proper seal closing force. Retighten the screws.

NOTICE

IF SCREWS ARE LOOSE ON THE OUT-SWING DOORS, THE BACKER PLATE WILL RELEASE AND DROP DOWN INTO THE DOOR JAMB. SHOULD THIS HAPPEN, REPLACE THE SHORT SCREWS WITH A SCREW THAT IS LONG ENOUGH TO GO THROUGH THE JAMB SYSTEM AND INTO THE FRAME WORK OF THE SIDEWALL.

The locking cylinder requires slight lubrication on an annual basis, or as needed. Use powdered graphite, not a petroleum product which will gum the cylinder and inhibit smooth operations. The upper lock is the dead bolt, the lower lock is the privacy lock. Applying a light coating of white lithium grease to the face of the lock bolt helps in retaining a smooth close. The hinges for the door require slight lubrication annually, or as needed, with a high-quality, dry spray lubricant.

The screen door can be adjusted to sit flush in the door jamb. This requires two separate adjustments to be performed. The first adjustment made is at the screen door latch/catch itself. Loosen the two screws holding the latch to the door to permit vertical adjustment. Move the latch far enough to catch on the striker mounted at the door frame. Tighten both screws. The striker mount on the door frame permits horizontal adjustment. Again, loosen the two screws holding the striker assembly. Move the striker to center the latch and tighten the screws in place.

It is a simple procedure to replace the sliding cover. Place the slider in the center. Pull from the center of the slider; it will bow enough to allow easy removal. To re-install, reverse this procedure. Install the upper left corner first and pay attention to the location of the stop tabs.

Sofa Bed Conversion (Optional)

The sofa will convert easily into a bed. Before converting the sofa to a bed clear the area of obstruction.

Sofa to Sleeper: raise the sofa seat base until the seat base and backrest form a V shape by lifting up from the center of the sofa just below the seat cushions, push down on the seat base until the seat base and back rest are flat.

Sleeper to Sofa: Lift the seat base up until seat and back rest are in a V shape and push down on the seat base.

Roll Over Dinette & Bed (Optional)

The dinette can be used as a bed or a dinette. When not in use the dinette is stored and secured to the sidewall. There are two dinette sections used, one for each side. A fold up portable table is used and should be properly stored when in transit.

To Use The Bed: Remove straps from each section and fold all legs out, lower bed sections and fold cushions out to form the bed.

To Use The Dinette: Remove retaining straps from each section and fold out bottom cushion legs of each section only, lower each section bottom cushion to rest on the legs and rotate inner cushions to form back rests.

Dinette Bed Conversion (Optional)

To convert the dinette into a bed: remove the tabletop from the leg supports and set aside, remove the leg supports from the base and store, slide the tabletop between the booth benches allowing it to rest on the guide rail and lay both seat cushions and back cushions together to form a mattress.

Storage – Under Bed (Optional)

To use the storage compartment located under the bed, lift up the bed by the front edge of the mattress platform. Gas struts hold the mattress and platform open.

FOR MORE DETAILED INFORMATION AND OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS, REFER THE TO THE MANUFACTURER’S MANUAL.

Overhead Storage

The overhead storage is to be used for light weight items only.

Entertainment Center: AM/FM/CD/DVD Player

The entertainment center stereo system consists of AM/FM Stereo Tuner, CD/DVD Player and interior speakers.

FOR MORE DETAILED INFORMATION AND OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS, REFER THE TO THE MANUFACTURER’S MANUAL.

Television Antenna

The television antenna is a manual crank up antenna with built in electronics that use 12 Volts DC to boost signal strength. Weak signals can be amplified by turning on the boost switch. The antenna and booster work together to provide the best possible picture for most situations. Certain conditions occur when no amplification is needed and the booster may make the picture worse.

DO NOT MOVE THE RECREATIONAL VEHICLE WITH THE ANTENNA RAISED. DAMAGE CAN OCCUR FROM LOW TREE LIMBS OR WIRES.

WARNING

BEFORE RAISING THE ANTENNA MAKE AN OUTSIDE VISUAL INSPECTION FOR ANY OBSTRUCTIONS OR OVERHEAD ELECTRICAL WIRES. DAMAGE TO THE ANTENNA, SEVERE SHOCK, PERSONAL INJURY OR LOSS OF LIFE CAN OCCUR FROM INADEQUATE CLEARANCE.

To raise the antenna, rotate the crank handle clockwise to raise the antenna (about 14-15 turns). Pull down on the outside directional wheel and rotate the antenna until the best picture is obtained (the directional wheel is spring loaded).

To lower the antenna, pull down on the directional wheel and align arrows then rotate crank handle counterclockwise lowering antenna fully into the cradle. Make an outside visual inspection to ensure the antenna is properly stowed.

Slide outs

Elevated beds and electric bed lift systems

exterior maintenance

Interior care

Winter Storage

Prolonged Occupancy

About Molds

What are molds?

Molds are microscopic organisms that naturally occur in virtually every environment, indoors and out. Outdoors, mold growth is important in the decomposition of plants. Indoors, mold growth is unfavorable. Left unchecked, molds break down natural materials, such as wood products and fabrics. According to the Center for Disease Control, exposure to damp and moldy environments may cause a variety of health effects, or none at all. Some people are sensitive to molds. For these people, molds can cause nasal stuffiness, throat irritation, coughing or wheezing, eye irritation, or, in some cases, skin irritation. People with mold allergies may have more severe reactions. Immune-compromised people and those with chronic lung illnesses, such as obstructive lung disease, may get serious infections in their lungs when they are exposed to mold.

What factors contribute to mold growth?

For mold growth to occur, temperatures, indoor or outdoors, must be between 40 degrees and 100 degrees Fahrenheit and also have a source of moisture, such as humidity, standing water, damp materials, etc. Indoors, the most rapid growth occurs with warm and humid conditions.

How can mold growth be inhibited?

By controlling relative humidity, the growth of mold and mildew can be inhibited. In warm climates, use of the air conditioner will reduce the relative humidity. Vents are located in the bathing and cooking areas and constant use is advised during food preparation and bathing, even during colder weather. Additionally, opening a window during these activities will assist in ventilation. In extremely humid conditions, the use of a dehumidifier can be helpful.*

Frequent use of your RV or cleaning regularly is an important preventive measure. Further, any spills should be wiped up quickly and dried as soon as possible. Avoid leaving damp items lying about. On safe surfaces, use mold or mildew killing cleaning products. Check sealants regularly, and reseal when necessary to avoid water leaks. Proper preventive maintenance to the RV and its accessories, as described both in this manual and in accompanying literature, will provide the best protection to the RV.

For more information of controlling moisture in the RV, please read, “Tips to Controlling Condensation,” located in this manual.

*If using a dehumidifier, please read and follow all manufacturer instructions and recommendations to the use and cleaning of the dehumidifier.

Tips to Controlling Condensation

To avoid condensation problems, try to follow these tips to help alleviate excess moisture.

• Allow excess moisture to escape to the outside when bathing, washing dishes, hair drying, laundering, and using appliances and non-vented gas burners.
• Always use the vent hood when cooking.
• Keep the bathroom door closed and the vent or window open when bathing and for a period of time after you have finished.
• Do not hang wet clothes in the vehicle to dry.
• In hot weather, start the air conditioner early as it removes excess humidity from the air while lowering the temperature.
• Keep the temperature as reasonably cool during cold weather as possible. The warmer the vehicle, the more cold exterior temperatures and warm interior temperatures will collide on wall surfaces, thus creating condensation.
• Use a fan to keep air circulating inside the vehicle so condensation and mildew cannot form in dead air spaces. Allow air to circulate inside closets and cabinets (leave doors partially open). Please keep in mind that a closed cabinet full of stored goods prevents circulation and allows the exterior temperature to cause condensation.
• The natural tendency would be to close the vehicle tightly during cold weather. This will actually compound the problem. Simply put, you need to remove some of the warm air, and allow some cool outside air to get inside the vehicle, so the furnace will not recycle the humid interior air.
• Use fluorescent ceiling lights and minimize prolonged use of incandescent lights, which produce heat and contribute to condensation in the roof above the ceiling lights.

Chemical Sensitivity

After you first purchase your new recreational vehicle and sometimes after it has been closed up for an extended period of time you may notice a strong odor and chemical sensitivity. This is not a defect in your recreational vehicle. Like your home, there are many different products used in the construction of recreational vehicles such as carpet, linoleum, plywood, insulation, upholstery, etc. Formaldehyde is also the by-product of combustion and numerous household products, such as some paints, coatings and cosmetics. However, recreational vehicles are much smaller than your home and therefore the exchange of air inside a recreational vehicle is significantly less than a home. These products, when new or when exposed to elevated temperatures and/or humidity, may “off-gas” different chemicals, including formaldehyde. This off-gassing, in combination with the minimal air exchange, may cause you to experience irritation of the eyes, nose, and throat and sometimes headache, nausea, and a variety of asthma-like symptoms. Elderly persons and young children, as well as anyone with a history of asthma, allergies, or lung problems, may be more susceptible to the effects of off-gassing.

Formaldehyde

Most of the attention regarding chemical off-gassing surrounds formaldehyde. Formaldehyde is a naturally occurring substance. It is also a key industrial chemical used in the manufacture of the numerous consumer products which we referred to above and used in the construction of recreational vehicles. Trace levels of formaldehyde are also released from smoking, cooking, use of soaps and detergents such as carpet shampoos, cosmetics, and many other household products. Some people are very sensitive to formaldehyde while others may not have any reaction to the same levels of formaldehyde. Amounts released decrease over time.

Ventilation

To reduce or lessen exposure to chemicals from off-gassing it is of utmost importance that you ventilate your recreational vehicle. Ventilation should occur frequently after purchase and at times when the temperatures and humidity are elevated. Remember off-gassing is accelerated by heat and humidity. Open windows, exhaust vents, and doors. Operate ceiling and/or other fans, roof air conditioners, and furnaces and use a fan to force stale air out and bring fresh air in. Decreasing the flow of air by sealing the recreational vehicle increases the formaldehyde level in the indoor air. Please also follow the recommendations contained in this chapter regarding tips to avoid condensation problems. Many of the recommendations contained in this chapter will assist in avoiding exposure to chemicals that off-gas.

Do Not Smoke

Finally, we recommend that you do not smoke inside your recreational vehicle. In addition to causing damage to your recreational vehicle, tobacco smoke releases formaldehyde and other toxic chemicals.

Medical Advice

If you have any questions regarding the health effects of formaldehyde, please consult your doctor or local health department.

Warranty Exclusion

CHEMICAL OFF-GASSING IS NOT A “DEFECT” IN YOUR RECREATIONAL VEHICLE AND IS NOT COVERED BY THE LIMITED ONE-YEAR WARRANTY. PLEASE FOLLOW THE RECOMMENDATIONS IN THIS SECTION TO ADDRESS THIS CONCERN.

This vehicle contains composite wood products that comply with the applicable California Code of Regulations section 93120.2(a) Phase 2 (P2) formaldehyde emission standards specified on the above date of manufacture.

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Toy Haulers

Cargo Ramp Trailer Weight Distribution

WARNING

It is not safe for persons or pets to occupy the vehicle storage area while vehicles are present. Failure to follow these important precautions may result in serious injury or death.

All loaded trailers must remain within GVWR and GAWR limits. Proper load distribution is especially important for ramp/cargo trailers. These trailers are designed to carry a variety of cargo and/or vehicles in the cargo storage area. These cargo items are typically heavy and you must consider how they are loaded. Incorrectly loaded trailers can have too little weight resting on the hitch or pin and can become unstable when towing. Therefore, you must maintain a hitch weight percentage of 10-15% for travel trailers and 15-25% for fifth wheels. Keep 60% of the cargo weight forward of the axle(s) center line.

Cargo/Ramp Trailer Loading

The rear cargo door/loading ramp gives you complete access to the trailer cargo area. When lowered, the loading ramp allows you to easily load rolling cargo, bicycles, small motorcycles and ATVs, and small vehicles.

This section outlines the safety precautions you should take when loading and unloading cargo and vehicles, as well as loading/unloading procedures, techniques and tips.

Cargo/Ramp Trailer Loading Safety

The loading ramp/door area of your trailer can be a very hazardous part of your recreational activities. Many combinations of hazards and a large volume of activities occur in this area. Some of these hazards are:

• Ramps And Inclines
• Overhead Obstructions
• Dissimilar Surfaces That Are Often Wet And Slippery
• Poor Lighting During Night Or Early Morning Activities
• Other Vehicular Traffic
• Pedestrians
• Restricted Views
• Awkward, Heavy Or Unbalanced Loads
• Sheer Drops
• Trailer Creep
• Congested Staging Areas
• Accumulations Of Empty Containers And Debris

These are all hazards which can all be present at the same time within a very confined area. You need to be aware of these potential hazards when loading, unloading and rigging your cargo. Your continuous attention to safety measure will help prevent accidents and possibly serious injuries and property damage.

The biggest reason to put a priority on loading safety is not so much related to the frequency of accidents as it is to the potential severity of injuries that can occur in these types of accidents. The kinds of injuries sustained when a load tips over, falls from the ramp, falls out of the trailer, or those that occur if the load shifts unexpectedly during travel tend to be very serious and sometimes fatal. You can prevent these types of accidents by paying attention to what you are doing and thinking through the consequences of poor loading.

Poor hazard assessment decisions are directly responsible for many accidents. You can help minimize these risks, avoid hazards, and enjoy your recreational activities safely by using an effective decision-making strategy:

Look around you and your situation. Get a good idea of what’s going on around you before you act.

Identify hazards or specific problems in your path. Equipment, materials,debris, other vehicles, children, pets, or any number of other things may be in your way when you load or unload cargo or vehicles.

Predict what may happen and think of the consequences of your actions. If you are loading/unloading alone, are you physically capable of handling the load safely and keeping it under control? Ask yourself what would happen if your load falls over, slips off the ramp or falls out of the trailer. If you are unable to control your cargo, what will happen to it, you, and any other people, equipment, or materials if/when it becomes uncontrollable? If you tie down your load, what will happen if a tie down comes loose? What will happen if all tie downs come loose? What will you do if someone else does something dangerous during your loading/unloading?

Decide what to do based on your abilities and the capabilities of your equipment. Always use proper lifting techniques, and personal protection equipment as necessary such as gloves, helmets, kneepads and other protective clothing. Be sure your cargo does not exceed the capacity of your loading ramp and the trailer.

Here are some general safety rules about loading and unloading your cargo trailer. Other safety items will be covered throughout this section.

• Always consider the equipment you are loading. After use, it may be hot, wet, slippery, dirty, or in some other condition that may be potentially hazardous.
• In all situations, follow the loading and weight guidelines in the “Loading and Weighing” chapter of this Owner’s Guide. Never exceed the GAWR and GVWR ratings of either your trailer of your tow vehicle.
• Connect to the tow vehicle and use wheel chocks in addition to the forward loading gear/jack of spotted trailers when loading and unloading to prevent potential forward or backward movement when loading or unloading.
• Be sure the work/loading area is well lit. Avoid loading/unloading at night or in conditions of poor visibility.
• Do not allow anyone who is not engaged in loading or unloading to be inside the trailer cargo area while loading/unloading.
• Visually inspect the trailer before loading. A damaged spot in the floor can cause cargo to be unstable, and damaged or missing tie down rings will prevent you from securing your load properly.
• Use caution tape, traffic cones or portable barricades to designate staging and loading areas in high activity situations where other vehicles and/or pedestrians are present.
• Keep the loading area clean and free of clutter and debris. Clean up water and oil on the floor.
• Designate areas at your campsite or activity area for storage of trash, tools, equipment, supplies and expendable containers such as food, beverage, oil and fuel containers.
• Give special attention to large loads that may obstruct the view of the loading crew.
• Wear boots that provide adequate ankle support and a slip resistant tread design, and hand protection when loading/unloading.
• Always communicate with the person doing the loading. Know what the plan is and make sure you agree.
• Maintain eye contact with other persons involved at all times during loading/unloading operations.
• Slow down and pay attention; never hurry around loading/unloading operations.
• Train everyone in your travel group on the hazards of loading and unloading.
• Establish and enforce compliance to all safety procedures.

Your Loading Equipment

The loading equipment furnished with your trailer is the ramp door and the tiedown attachment points in the cargo area floor. The rated capacity of the ramp door is 2500 pounds. Each tie down D-ring attachment is rated at 1500 pounds. No tiedown straps, cables, hooks, chains, wheel chocks, blocks, etc. are supplied with your trailer. Refer to your trailers cargo capacity rating to determine the maximum load capacity of the trailer.

Caution

The rear cargo door weighs approximately 200 pounds. It is designed for two-person operation. The maximum cargo capacity of the rear cargo door/ramp is 2500 pounds The maximum capacity for each tiedown point in the cargo area is 1500 pounds.

Chocks and Blocks

Chocks and blocks prevent accidental or unintended movement of mobile equipment and cargo while you are loading, unloading, hitching, unhitching, or performing service or maintenance. Wheel chocks are wedge-shaped blocks placed in front of or behind the rear wheels of a trailer or tow vehicle to prevent the trailer from moving while the trailer is being loaded. “Trailer creep” occurs when the sideways and vertical forces exerted each time a load enters and exits the trailer cause the trailer to slowly move away from the loading area. The weight and speed of loading can affect trailer creep. The grade the trailer it parked on, the softness of the suspension, and whether the trailer has been dropped off or if it is still connected to the tow vehicle are also factors. Loading accidents can also occur when a driver prematurely pulls away while the trailer is still being loaded/unloaded.

Always hitch the trailer to the tow vehicle, and use wheel chocks or other vehicle-restraining devices when loading and unloading the trailer. Keep spare chocks on hand. They often get left behind or lost during outdoor activities. Chocking the wheels of a truck, trailer, or other piece of mobile equipment provides a physical stopper to the wheels to prevent runaways that can crush or injure people and damage equipment.

When chocking, use wheel chocks of the appropriate size and material to securely hold the vehicle. Don’t use lumber, cinder blocks, rocks, or other make-shift items to chock. Make it easy to find and use the correct chocking equipment; store chocks inside the trailer or tow vehicle. Keep chocks available at places where you typically load and unload.

Use extra caution when loading from the ramp. If the trailer rolls away, you and the equipment you are loading can fall with severe injuries or death. Never load equipment from the ramp into the trailer until you ensure that the wheels are properly chocked. Ensure that the trailer floor is in good condition and that it can support the weight of the equipment you are loading.

Blocking stabilizes loaded cargo to prevent shifting and trailer overturns. If the load shifts while in motion, the sudden shift in position and center of gravity may cause towing instability possibly causing the trailer to overturn. Securely block all cargo, not just wheeled equipment and round or oddly shaped items. Block items separately and on all four sides using wood blocks thick enough to prevent cargo movement. Use tie downs and D-rings/carabiners strong enough to secure the load. Avoid using other cargo as a block.

Cargo Placement and Restraint

Cargo that is likely to roll (vehicles, tool chests, barrels, etc.) should be restrained by chocks, clocks, wedges, a cradle or other equivalent means to prevent rolling. Whatever you use to prevent rolling should not be able to be accidentally unfastened or loosened while the trailer is in motion.

Proper Use of Tiedowns

Avoid using tiedowns and securing devices with knots. Be sure to attach and secure each tiedown so that it can’t come loose, unfastened, opened or released while the trailer is in motion. Also, use edge protection whenever a tiedown could be damaged or cut at the point where it touches an article of cargo.

Tiedown Minimum Working Load Limit

The working load limit of a tiedown, associated connector, or attachment mechanism is the lowest working load limit of any of its components (including any tensioner device), or the working load limit of the anchor points to which it is attached, whichever is less. When you choose tiedown hardware, choose items that are strong enough to hold the load you are securing. The load limit of each tiedown used should be at least one-half the working load limit of each tiedown that goes from an anchor point on the trailer to an attachment point on an article of cargo. Check the tiedown manufacturer’s specifications to determine working load limits.

Tiedown hardware is not supplied with your trailer.

Minimum Number Of Tiedowns

When an article of cargo is not blocked or positioned to prevent movement in the forward direction, the number of tiedowns needed depends on the length and weight of the articles. In all cases, use enough tiedowns to secure the cargo from moving in any direction. Heavy tool chests or cabinets may require tiedowns around the bottom, middle and top to secure them. Be sure to lock or secure drawers in these chests or cabinets so they can’t open while traveling. Keep handle bars, mirrors, etc. away from the trailer interior walls. The walls can be damaged by contact with hard, sharp objects.

WARNING

When the trailer is unhooked from the tow vehicle, lower and check the stabilizing jacks before using the loading ramp. Failure to do so could cause the trailer to tip back as the load is shifted to the rear of the cargo area causing property damage, personal injury, and/or death. Hitch the trailer to a tow vehicle before loading and unloading the rear cargo area.

Cargo Loading Procedure

Rear Door/ Loading Ramp Operation

1. Hitch the trailer to a tow vehicle before loading and unloading the rear cargo area. Select a parking site where the edge of the rear door/loading ramp will rest entirely on a flat, level surface, and the corners of the door will be supported. Avoid soft sand or mud surfaces. When the trailer is loaded, the added cargo weight may cause the trailer and/or tow vehicle to become struck.
2. Level and stabilize the trailer.
3. Unlock the rear door/landing ramp and carefully lower it to the ground.
4. If equipped with a power bunk, raise both bunks fully.
5. Move things out of the way of your cargo, whether you are loading, or unloading. Have an idea where your cargo will be positioned after your load/unload activities.
6. Use caution and proper lifting techniques when loading and unloading items from the cargo area.
7. Use extreme caution when loading/unloading ATVs, motorcycles, or other vehicles (“motorized cargo” or “vehicle(s)”). These machines are generally heavy, and may be hot from operation and/or covered with dirt, oil, or other substances that may make them slippery.
8. Make certain that the door seals and hinge area are free of any debris, such as sand or snow before closing the rear door/loading ramp.
9. Inspect the hinges, assist springs, and latch mechanism before each trip for signs of wear or damage, and make any needed repairs for safe operation and towing

Loading and Unloading Motorized Cargo

WARNING

Any motorized vehicle or any motorized equipment powered with flammable liquid can cause fire explosion, or asphyxiation if store or transported within the recreational vehicle. To reduce the risk of fire, explosion, or asphyxiation: Passengers shall not ride in the vehicle storage area at any time• Occupants shall not sleep in the vehicle storage area while • vehicles are present Doors and windows in walls of separation (if installed) shall be closed while the vehicles are present. Fuel shall be run out of engines of stored vehicles after shutting • off fuel at the tank. Motor fuel shall not be stored or transported inside this vehicle.• The vehicle storage area shall be ventilated. Gas appliances, pilot lights, or electrical equipment shall not be operated when motorized vehicles or motorized equipment are inside vehicle. FAILURE TO COMPLY COULD RESULT IN AN INCREASED RISK OF FIRE, EXPLOSION, ASPHYXIATION, DEATH OR SERIOUS INJURY.

Many recreation ATV or motorcycle accidents and injuries happen while loading or unloading. Steep inclines, unstable ramps, power and a short stopping area are what make loading motorized cargo difficult and unsafe. There is no absolute safe way to drive your motorized cargo into the trailer. Take the following steps to aid in reducing the risks associated with transporting, storing, or occupying the trailer. Take the following steps to reducing the risks associated with transporting, storing, or occupying the trailer with motorized equipment and vehicles:

• Wear personal protective equipment while loading and unloading vehicles to/from the trailer. This includes but is not limited to, an approved motor vehicle helmet, leather boots, appropriate gloves, and eye protection
• Never stand in the path of equipment when loading/unloading with the ramp, and keep bystanders away from the ramps.
• Keep body parts completely clear of the ramp door hinge pinch area at all times
• Check parking brakes on the vehicle(s) you are loading/unloading, and on the tow vehicles.
• Inspect ramp and trailer floor/loading area for cracks, damage, oil or other debris that may cause slippage.
• Do not allow persons or pets to ride inside the vehicle storage • area at any time.
• Close doors and windows in separation walls while the vehicles are present.
• Close tank fuel valves and operate the engine(s) to run fuel out of engine(s) of stored vehicles.
• Do not store or transport motor fuel anywhere inside the trailer.
• Ventilate the interior of the trailer to reduce the risk of fire, explosion, or asphyxiation.
• Do not operate gas appliances, pilot lights, or electrical equipment when motorized vehicles or motorized equipment are inside the trailer. FAILURE TO COMPLY COULD RESULT IN AN INCREASED RISK OF FIRE, EXPLOSION OR ASPHYXIATION.
• Load and store your equipment and motorized vehicles according to the “Loading and Weighing” chapter in this Owner’s Guide.
• During transit, secure motorized vehicles and motorized equipment so that items do not move while in transit.
• Remove carpet from section where fueled vehicles or motorized equipment will be stored.

WARNING

There is a hazard of serious personal injury when using a loading ramp. Never ride motorized cargo up a loading ramp.

Loading Technique

WARNING

If the motorized cargo loses traction and spins sideways, it may slip side-ways off the ramp, tipping sideways, and possibly falling on the rider causing injury.

Ramp Positioning

The ramp angle from the trailer floor to the ground affects the risk when loading/unloading cargo. If the ramp angle is reduced, and all other conditions remain the same, rick is reduced. Always try to reduce the loading ramp angle - the shallower the ramp angle, the easier cargo loading will be. Position the trailer to take advantage of any terrain features that will help reduce the ramp angle. In all cases, be sure the ends of the ramp door can be fully supported.

Always position the loading ramp so the ends in contact with the ground are level or at the same height. An uneven ramp may cause the cargo to tip over sideways during loading/unloading.

WARNING

Do not load motorized cargo (motorcycles, ATVs, etc.) by riding them up the ramp door. Loss of control could cause serious personal injury. Heartland does not recommend loading motorized cargo under power.

Loading Under Power

Motorized cargo should be walked up the ramp. When preparing to load the vehicle into the trailer, the operator’s hands should be positioned on the controls so as to keep the vehicle in control during loading.

1. Shift into lowest gear before ascending ramps.
2. Align wheels with ramps both loading and unloading
3. Approach straight on, not on an angle. If you are off to one side and the ground is uneven where the ramp touches the ground, an unbalanced situation can occur.
4. The operator should apply throttle smoothly and climb the ramp at low speed. Too much or sudden increases in throttle will cause the vehicle to be harder to control and may cause the vehicle to impact the front of the trailer cargo area or over-turn.
5. Stop when fully in the trailer. Keep handle bars, mirrors, etc. away from the trailer interior walls. The walls can be damaged by contact with hard, sharp objects.
6. After loading, close the fuel valve and run the engine until it stops (motorcycle and ATVs). Turn the ignition key off and remove it. Set the parking brake. For manual clutch machines, leave the machine in gear.
7. Secure the vehicle with tie downs. The attachment points you select on your equipment must be strong enough to support the weight of the equipment. Usually attachment points that are low and centered on the equipment frame will be good. An attachment to a decorative piece of chrome or plastic will usually not be a good tie-down point. Consider any leverage action that may occur. An attachment point past the center of the equipment could cause the equipment to either swing around or flip over, causing damage to the equipment, or personal injury. If you have any doubt about the attachment point you have selected, stop and find a better attachment point

WARNING

Failure to properly secure cargo could cause, property damage, in-jury, and/or death.

Secure the Load

Install blocking devices in the front, back, and on both sides of the wheels to keep it from rolling. This block is strictly an additional safety precaution and does not reduce the need for strapping the vehicle in securely.

Use a minimum of three tiedowns to secure the vehicle to the trailer. Use one tiedown to secure the front of the vehicle to the trailer. Use two tiedowns to secure the rear of the vehicle to the trailer. Four tiedowns (one at each corner) are preferred.

Attach tiedown hooks to the vehicle’s frame, not to an accessory such as a mirror, handle bar, pedal, etc. Hooks on the other end must be attached to vehicle cargo anchors installed in the trailer.

For transport, motorized cargo with manual transmissions should be left in first gear. Vehicle’s with automatic transmissions should be in the Park position. The vehicle’s ignition key should be turned off and removed, the parking brake set, the run/stop switch in the stop (or off) position and the fuel lever turned to the off position.

The Safest Way to Unload Your Motorized Cargo

The safest method of unloading is to push the vehicle down the ramp, carefully braking to ensure control of the vehicle.

If you loaded your vehicle forward (front in) that means you will unload it in reverse. Driving a motorized vehicle backwards down a hill (the ramp) is not recommended. A slight turn of the handle or slip of a wheel can cause your vehicle to fall, tip or roll sideways. If you are on or in the vehicle you can be inured or killed. Unload the vehicle safely as follows:

1. Be sure the back tires of the vehicle are aligned with the ramp, and there are no people, pets or obstructions in the unloading area at the end of the ramp. Assure that the ground surface will support the vehicle, and that the vehicle cannot roll away uncontrolled.
2. Stand at the front of the vehicle.
3. Push the vehicle backward in line with the ramp.
4. As the rear tires start down the ramp let go of the vehicle and let it roll backwards (don’t try and slow or control the vehicle as this can cause injury).

DANGER

Do not smoke when filling the tank. Before dispensing fuel, turn off all engines and fuel burning appliances and ground the trailer. Do not dispense fuel within 20 feet of an ignition source.

Fuel Transfer System

A fuel transfer system allows you to store gasoline for use in motorcycles, snowmobiles, ATVs or other vehicles and equipment while at a campsite. This system consists of a fuel tank, fuel tank filter, fuel gauge, fuel transfer pump, fuel transfer valve and hose with fill nozzle. A master pump switch is located on the inside control panel and an emergency shutoff switch is located on the trailer frame rail near the fuel transfer pump. A metal ground clip reduces the possibility of static electricity discharge between the fuel station and the equipment being fueled.

To fill the tank, remove the fuel filler cap and fill the tank with the grade gasoline required by your equipment. When replacing the fuel fill cap, be sure it seats squarely and turn it firmly to lock it on the fill pipe neck.

DANGER

Potentially explosive fuel vapor may be present at fuel filling stations and during refueling of equipment with the fuel transfer system. Never enter a fuel filling stating or refuel equipment if your furnace or water heater is operating or if your refrigerator is operating on propane. Both the flame and the ignitors in the burners of these appliances are sources of ignition, and could cause an explosion. These appliances must be turned OFF before entering a fuel filling station or refueling equipment. Turning off the propane main tank valve only is not sufficient. The appliances must be OFF at their electrical operating switches.

DANGER

Any motorized equipment powered with flammable liquid can cause fire and explosion or asphyxiation if stored or transported inside the trailer. To reduce the risk of fire,explosion or asphyxiation: 1. Do not allow passengers to ride inside the storage area at any time 2. Prior to storing vehicles in the trailer, run fuel out of the engine after shutting off fuel at the vehicle fuel tank 3. Do not store or transport any motor fuel inside the trailer 4. Ventilate the interior of the trailer to reduce the risk of fire, explosion or asphyxiation. Open the ventilation panels on either side of the cargo area. 5. Do not operate propane appliances, pilot lights, or electrical equipment when motorized vehicles or motorized equipment are inside the trailer. Set the cargo electrical disconnect switch to OFF.

Fuel Transfer System Safety

Static electricity-related incidents when refueling are extremely unusual. They appear to happen most often during cool or cold and dry climate conditions. In rare circumstances, these static related incidents have resulted in a brief flash fire occurring at the fill point. You can minimize these and other potential fueling hazards by following safe refueling procedures.

A build-up of static electricity can be caused by re-entering a vehicle during fueling, particularly in cool or cold and dry weather. If you return to the fuel fill pipe during refueling, the static may discharge at the fill point causing a flash fire or small sustained fire with gasoline refueling vapors.

If you cannot avoid getting back into the vehicle, always first touch a metal part of the vehicle with a bare hand, such as the door, or some other metal surface, away from the fill point upon exiting the vehicle

Here are some additional refueling safety guidelines when refueling your vehicle or filling up gasoline storage containers:

• Turn off vehicle engines. Disable or turn off any auxiliary sources of ignition: the trailer furnace, water heater, cooking unit, and any pilot lights. Turn off main propane valve.
• Do not smoke, light matches or lighters while operating the refueling system, or when using gasoline anywhere else.
• Use only the refueling latch provided on the gasoline dispenser nozzle.
• Never jam or otherwise try to lock the refueling latch on the nozzle open.
• Do not re-enter your vehicle during refueling. If you cannot avoid reentering your vehicle, discharge any static build-up BEFORE reaching for the nozzle by touching something metal with a bare hand - such as the vehicle body or frame - away from the nozzle
• In the unlikely even a static-caused fire occurs when refueling, leave the nozzle in the fill pipe and back away from the vehicle. Turn off the fuel pump master switch immediately.
• Do not over-fill or top-of your vehicle tank, which can cause gasoline spillage.
• Never allow children under licensed driving age to operate the pump.
• Avoid prolonged breathing of gasoline vapors. Use gasoline only in open areas that get plenty of fresh air. Keep your face away from the nozzle or container opening.
• Never siphon gasoline by mouth. Never put gasoline in your mouth for any reason. Gasoline can be harmful or fatal if swallowed. If someone swallows gasoline, do not induce vomiting. Contact a emergency medical service provider immediately.
• Keep gasoline away from your eyes and skin; it may cause irritation
• Remove gasoline-soaked clothing immediately.
• Use gasoline as a motor fuel only. Never use gasoline to wash your hands or as a cleaning solvent.

WARNING

Fuel-soaked rags or other materials contain flammable and/or explosive fuel vapors and other hazardous substances. Clean up materials should be temporarily stored in a nonflammable, vapor-tight container until proper disposal facilities are available. Do not store flammable clean up rags or materials inside any other vehicle or near any source of flame or ignition

Fuel Transfer System Operation

To operate the fuel transfer system (also see the “Fuel Pump Owner’s Manual” in your Owner’s Information Package):

1. Lower the tongue jack or 5th-wheel jacks to the ground. This will electrostatically ground the trailer to reduce the possibility of static discharge while refueling.
2. Set the cargo area disconnect switch to ON
3. Close the vents in the side of the trailer to prevent fuel vapor from entering the trailer.
4. Press the fuel transfer pump master/timer switch ON. Each press of the switch allows the pump to run 5 minutes. When the pump stops, press again if necessary for another 5 minute run.
5. Attach the ground clip securely to a bare metal part of the equipment to be fueled (frame, handle bar, axle bolt, etc.)
6. Remove the fuel hose and nozzle from its compartment. An automatic bypass valve prevents pressure buildup when the pump is on with the nozzle closed.
7. Place the nozzle into the equipment fuel filler and squeeze the handle to allow fuel to flow. Be careful not to overfill the equipment fuel tank. Wipe up any spilled fuel.
8. When finished, release the nozzle handle, return the nozzle to its compartment.
9. Lock the fuel transfer nozzle compartment to prevent unauthorized use. The nozzle compartment must be locked at all times when not dispensing fuel.
10. When you are finished with all fueling, turn of the pump master switch.

All parts of the fuel transfer system including but not limited to the hoses, pump, nozzle, fittings,and tank have been selected for their quality, safety,and intended application. Any alteration or replacement of any part by other than Heartland parts could jeopardize the integrity of the system and may result in serious injury or even death.

If your fueling system is not working properly or you need additional information on the use of the system contact your authorized Heartland dealer immediately or call Heartland directly.

Caution

If a fuel spill occurs in the storage area of the trailer, open the windows and sidewall vents, and wipe up the fuel with cloth or paper towels. Dispose of the towels in a suitable hazardous waster container. Do not hose out the trailer with water. Clean the fuel spill areas with a grease/oil dissolving cleaner such as 409. Thoroughly dry the spill areas.

PORTABLE CONTAINERS

When dispensing gasoline into a container, use only approved portable containers and place it on the ground to avoid a possible static electricity ignition of the fuel vapors. Never fill a container while the container is inside a vehicle, a car trunk, the bed of a pickup truck or the floor of a trailer.

When filling a portable container, manually control the nozzle valve throughout the filling process. Fill a portable container slowly to decrease the chance of static electricity build up and minimize spilling.

Keep the fuel nozzle in contact with the rim of the container opening while refueling.

Fill container no more than 95 percent full to allow for expansion.

Place cap tightly on the container after filling – do not use containers that do not seal properly.

Store gasoline only in approved containers. Never store gasoline in glass or any other unapproved container.

If gasoline spills on the container, clean up the spill immediately.

When transporting gasoline in a portable container make sure it is secured against tipping and sliding, and never leave it in direct sunlight or in the trunk of a car.