Frequently Asked Questions

A: If your Water Heater is not heating water when you are trying to use it on AC Power, check the following items:

1. That your water heater actually has the electric power option
2. That you have water in the tank (water is coming out of the hot water tap) - critical!
3. That you have flipped the Hot Water Heater power switch ON, "inside" the RV.  This is usually a residential style wall switch
4. That you have removed the tiny cotter pin from and switched ON a small rocker switch on the "outside" of the water heater behind the removable panel on the side of the RV.

A: If your Water Heater is not heating water when you are trying to use it on LP Gas, check the following items:

1. That you have gas in your LP Gas tanks
2. That the valves are in the fully open position on all LP Gas tanks
3. That you have water in the tank (water is coming out of the hot water tap) - critical!
   
4. That you have switched ON, the red lighted switch on the white Monitor Panel that is marked Water Heater
5. That you have given the water heater sufficient time (at least 15 minutes) for it to begin to heat and warm the water
6. That you have check all outside showers and spray ports that have both hot and cold faucets that both faucets are fully closed
7. That you have the water heater Bypass valves in the NOT bypassed position

A:

1. Ensure that the antenna is deployed:
   For roof-mounted TV antennas, in order to receive the strongest, most usable signal on as many channels as possible, you will need to extend and possibly rotate the antenna.  Find the antenna crank and rotation wheel.  It will be mounted to the ceiling of your RV.  Using the crank handle, fully crank up (elevate) your antenna.  Then, using the rotation wheel, grasp it with your hand, pull it downward slightly and rotate the handle to turn the antenna into the direction of the location of the transmitting tower(s) of the TV stations you are trying to pickup.  A trial and error method may have to be used in terms of antenna rotation and therefore direction in order to optimize your received signal vs. the channels you want to pickup.
   
   
2. Ensure that power is on to the antenna booster:
   Most Heartland RVs use a roof-mounted crank-up style (bat-wing) TV antenna.  Most of these antennas connect to a 12 volt DC powered "Signal Booster" (amplifier).  These boosters are usually built onto the back of a TV wall-plate.  Usually in an area near the antenna.  The power supply for this booster must be turned on before a usable signal will be available for use.  On most classic (2005-2007) Landmarks, there is a Winegard RF switcher in the coat closet.  On the left side of that switcher is a Power button.  Switch that button ON to send 12 volts DC to the booster.  On later model Landmarks and most other Heartland brands, the power supply is built into the same wall-plate as the booster.  The power switch will be a thin red push button.  Press that button and a red power light will illuminate on the wall-plate indicating that the power is ON.
   
   
3. Setup your TV tuner to find and lock in area channels:
   Today's television sets with electronic tuning (analog or digital broadcast) require that you seek/find and lock in the available local TV stations, each time you setup your RV at a new location as available channels will be different by area.  Fortunately, these televisions will do most of this work for you.  You will only need to put your set into the right mode.  Do this by accessing the Menu on the TV set.  Navigate to the TV Tuner section of the Menu and then set the tuner to AIR or OFF-AIR or OVER-THE-AIR.  Do NOT set it to CABLE in order to use it for antenna channels.  Then, usually in that same menu area, put your set into AUTO-SCAN mode so it will find and lock in all available antenna channels.  Note: Only perform this step after steps 1 and 2 are complete.
   

A: For the Dometic brand ice maker

Excerpted from Dometic REFRIGERATOR BULLETIN R69/2C JANUARY 2002 DON'T FORGET TO WINTERIZE YOUR ICE MAKER


WINTER OPERATION
Your refrigerator is equipped with a heater tape wrapped around the water solenoid valve and outlet water tube.  During cold weather operation below 32 degrees F (0 degrees C) the automatic temperature switch will turn the heater tape "ON" automatically. If the recreational vehicle is in storage and the DC power is turned "OFF" there will be no 12V DC present to operate the heat tape; therefore, it will be necessary to drain the ice maker.  If temperatures are expected to reach or exceed 0 degrees F (-18 degrees C) the ice maker must be drained to prevent component damage and leaks.


HOW TO DRAIN THE ICE MAKER
Note: Water, compressed air and AC power are required to drain the ice maker. Draining of the ice maker must be done by a qualified service technician.

1. If the RV will not be in use for an extended period of time or put into storage, the ice maker should be drained and dried. This will prevent water from freezing in the solenoid valve or becoming stale and producing bad tasting ice.
   
   
2. Close the shutoff valve in the water supply line to the ice maker.  See figure 1.
   
   
3. Place a shallow pan under the water solenoid valve.
   
   
4. The inlet fitting should be removed from the water solenoid valve. Drain water from the supply line.  See figure 1.
   
   
5. Remove the plastic nut and water line from the outlet side of the water solenoid valve. DO NOT LOSE METAL INSERT FROM PLASTIC WATER LINE! Drain water from line.  See figure 1.
   
   
6. *Connect compressed air onto the inlet fitting of the water solenoid valve.  See figure 1.  Apply AC power to the solenoid valve by forcing the ice maker mold assembly through several harvest cycles. Remove the plastic cover from the mold assembly. The bail arm must be in the down ("ON") position. Start the harvest cycle with a flat blade screw driver inserted into the center of the small gear.  Turn the gear counterclockwise, when the hold switch closes, the mold assembly will continue to operate through the harvest cycle.  See figure 2.  During the water fill sequence of the harvest cycle the compressed air will blow out the water trapped in the solenoid valve.  Repeat the harvest cycle operation several times.
   
   
7. Reconnect the inlet and outlet water lines on the water solenoid valve. Metal  insert MUST  be  installed  in plastic  water  line  going  to  outlet  side  of  water solenoid.  Leave the water supply turned off.  See figure 1.
   
   
8. Dry out the ice maker mold assembly with a soft cloth.  Place bail arm in the "UP/OFF" position.

*Note: Up to 20 PSIG air pressure can be used to clear the solenoid valve.  AC power can be applied to the solenoid valve for a maximum of 20 seconds.

A: Storing your RV under a roof-type cover or within a building when the RV will not be used for an extended periord of time is always a good idea when this option is available to you.

When you must store your RV outdoors during periods of non-use, you also have the option of using a temporary cover that is draped over the RV, then fastened onto the RV tightly.  Many of these covers have a Dupont Tyvek® top or roof panel and Polypropylene side panels.

Many RV owners prefer to cover their RVs with the drape-over style covers to protect the surfaces and finish from UV breakdown, dirt, leaves, birds and other airborne contaminants.  On the other-hand, many RV owners feel that to cover an RV with the drape-over style covers may lead to chafing and that chafing can lead to rubbing of paint, decals and other finishes.  This camp prefers the trade-off of the effects of a cover that may rub off their finishes to the need to work harder to restore the finish of an RV that is exposed to the elements during the period of non-use.

A: If you are planning to "store" your RV where the RV will be exposed to temperatures of 32 degrees or lower for a period greater than a few hours, you will need to winterize your RV.

While the PEX water lines used in most modern RV's can withstand freezing temperatures with water in them, the connectors, faucets, showers, pumps, solenoids and other items connected to the water system will generally not tolerate frrezing with water in them.

Methods: Three methods are generally used to winterize an RV's water system.
1. Compressed Air:
Using a blow-out adapter plug at your city water connection on the RV, connecting compressed air at low pressure (15-20 PSI), then opening each water faucet one at a time and allowing all the water to be blown out - is one method.  There are many more steps to this method.  See a detailed process below.

2. RV Antifreeze:
Using your RV's water-pump to suck RV Antifreeze and into your water system, then opening each water faucet one at a time allowing the water to be pushed out until antifreeze comes out - is another method. There are many more steps to this method.  See a detailed process below.

3. Hybrid - Compressed Air / RV Antifreeze
A hybridized method using a combination of the Compressed Air process and the RV Antifreeze process is the ultimate method. 

In climates where winter is mild with only a couple freeze events per season, the Compressed Air method is often used.  In climates where winter is any harsher, the RV Antifreeze method is vital.  To be doubly sure - the hybrid method may be used.

Detailed Process - Compressed Air Method
Process to be added soon...

Detailed Process - RV Antifreeze Method
Process to be added soon...

Detailed Process - Hybrid Method
Follow the entire detailed process for the Compressed Air method.  Then follow the entire detailed process for the RV Antifreeze method.